Santiaguito – Fatbiking on an Active Volcano

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Baptism by Fire.

Our attempt at fatbiking on the Santiaguito Volcano – one of Guatemala’s most active Volcanoes.

Volcan Santiaguito was our first attempt in this expedition, and it would prove to be the most difficult. We had no beta on the route besides a few vague GPX waypoints. When asked, the rockclimbing club said the volcano hadn’t been attempted in the past two years due to extreme activity.

To reach the volcanic terrain we would need to descend the landslide on the backside of Santa Maria. The entire mission would be an inverse hike – 1000m down then 1000m up – this was not going to be a straight forward volcano.  I thought to myself: “It’s only a thousand meters, how hard could it be?”

The approach to the Santiguito Volcano was overgrown and had was no resupply for food or water. We would have to take with three days of supplies which meant traveling with bikes that weighed over 70lbs.

Neither of us had any idea of what we were about to get into on this volcano and the only thing I think we really proved through it all was that we both were crazy to even think this mission up. Anyways… onward![/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column css=”.vc_custom_1553221444521{border-bottom-width: 40px !important;}” offset=”vc_col-lg-3 vc_col-md-4 vc_col-xs-12″ el_class=”darkc”][vc_row_inner equal_height=”yes” css=”.vc_custom_1522873952061{margin-right: 5px !important;margin-bottom: 10px !important;margin-left: 10px !important;border-top-width: 2px !important;border-right-width: 2px !important;border-bottom-width: 2px !important;border-left-width: 2px !important;padding-right: 5px !important;padding-left: 5px !important;background-color: rgba(0,0,0,0.01) !important;*background-color: rgb(0,0,0) !important;border-left-color: #606060 !important;border-left-style: solid !important;border-right-color: #606060 !important;border-right-style: solid !important;border-top-color: #606060 !important;border-top-style: solid !important;border-bottom-color: #606060 !important;border-bottom-style: solid !important;border-radius: 5px !important;}”][vc_column_inner width=”1/12″ offset=”vc_col-lg-3 vc_col-md-4 vc_col-xs-3″ css=”.vc_custom_1522816214639{margin-top: 20px !important;margin-left: 0px !important;border-left-width: 0px !important;padding-left: 0px !important;}”][/vc_column_inner][vc_column_inner width=”5/12″ css=”.vc_custom_1522816887069{margin-top: 20px !important;padding-left: 7px !important;}” offset=”vc_col-lg-9 vc_col-xs-9″][vc_custom_heading text=”Project Sponsors:” font_container=”tag:h1|font_size:24px|text_align:right|color:%23dddddd” google_fonts=”font_family:Exo%3A100%2C100italic%2C200%2C200italic%2C300%2C300italic%2Cregular%2Citalic%2C500%2C500italic%2C600%2C600italic%2C700%2C700italic%2C800%2C800italic%2C900%2C900italic|font_style:500%20bold%20regular%3A500%3Anormal” el_class=”white” css=”.vc_custom_1553033595077{margin-top: 0px !important;margin-right: 10px !important;margin-left: 20px !important;}”][vc_column_text css=”.vc_custom_1553390823048{margin-right: 10px !important;}”]

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Brendan James

Traveler and photographer, Brendan has cycled throughout Latin America currently lives in Guatemala. bio[/vc_column_text][/vc_column_inner][/vc_row_inner][vc_row_inner equal_height=”yes” content_placement=”top” css=”.vc_custom_1553223064164{margin: 0px !important;padding: 0px !important;background-color: rgba(0,0,0,0.01) !important;*background-color: rgb(0,0,0) !important;border: 0px none !important;}”][vc_column_inner width=”1/6″ offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-0 vc_col-lg-4 vc_col-md-offset-3 vc_col-md-6 vc_col-sm-offset-3 vc_col-xs-4″ css=”.vc_custom_1553224624246{margin-top: 5px !important;margin-bottom: 5px !important;}”][vc_single_image image=”16114″ img_size=”medium” style=”vc_box_circle_2″ onclick=”custom_link” img_link_target=”_blank” link=”https://www.picsporadic.com/bio” css=”.vc_custom_1553371262609{margin-left: 0px !important;border-left-width: 0px !important;padding-left: 0px !important;}”][/vc_column_inner][vc_column_inner width=”5/12″ offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-0 vc_col-lg-8 vc_col-md-offset-0 vc_col-md-12 vc_col-sm-offset-0 vc_col-xs-8″ css=”.vc_custom_1553224590170{margin-top: 5px !important;margin-right: 10px !important;margin-left: 20px !important;border-left-width: 0px !important;}”][vc_column_text el_class=”light”]

Elizabeth Sampey D.P.T

Endurance athlete and former pro USA Cycling national champion. Visit website[/vc_column_text][/vc_column_inner][/vc_row_inner][vc_custom_heading text=”Recent Posts” font_container=”tag:h1|font_size:20px|text_align:right|color:%23878787|line_height:20px” google_fonts=”font_family:Exo%3A100%2C100italic%2C200%2C200italic%2C300%2C300italic%2Cregular%2Citalic%2C500%2C500italic%2C600%2C600italic%2C700%2C700italic%2C800%2C800italic%2C900%2C900italic|font_style:600%20bold%20regular%3A600%3Anormal” el_class=”white” css=”.vc_custom_1522872760595{margin-top: 35px !important;margin-right: 20px !important;margin-left: 20px !important;}”][jig_vc][justified_image_grid preset=c3 row_height=100 title_field=title caption_opacity=1 caption_bg_color=109,76,52,0.8 caption_text_color=white caption_title_size=12px v_center_captions=yes specialfx=everything specialfx_type=desaturate orderby=menu_order max_rows=2 recent_posts=yes recents_description=date][/jig_vc][/vc_column][vc_column css=”.vc_custom_1553040554697{margin-top: 0px !important;border-top-width: 0px !important;padding-top: 0px !important;}” offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-8 vc_col-md-offset-0 vc_col-md-12 vc_col-xs-12″][vc_single_image image=”16100″ img_size=”full” css=”.vc_custom_1553369673701{padding-bottom: 10px !important;}”][jig_vc][justified_image_grid ids=16109,16099,16104 thumbs_spacing=10 row_height=375 height_deviation=100 orderby=menu_order max_rows=1 disable_cropping=no][/jig_vc][/vc_column][vc_column width=”1/2″ offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-4 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-5 vc_col-sm-offset-0 vc_col-xs-12″ el_class=”lightc”][vc_column_text]

Quezaltenango

The Journey Begins

Quezaltenango, or Xela is about 2 hours away from Panajachel by chickenbus. We packed up everything (checking twice) before heading out in the evening. We were staying at Hostel Nim Sut, our favorite, modestly priced hostel in Xela. For about $10 a night we got our own room, which didn’t matter because the place was completely empty. The owner complained about how “Americans don’t travel anymore.”[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”1/2″ offset=”vc_col-lg-4 vc_col-md-5″ el_class=”lightc”][vc_column_text css=”.vc_custom_1553376476368{margin-right: 10px !important;}”]While we were going over the bikes in the courtyard an older Danish couple arrived and immediately began talking to us enthusiastically about the fatbikes. “Where do you take the bike?” the older gentleman asked. We told him we were going to Santiaguito. His face grew long.

He said he had gone to the volcano the last time he was in Guatemala – some 10 years ago. “You will not succeed with the bicycles” he said, holding his hands out as if he had a handlebar. “There are many small trees, your bikes will not fit!” … Great, more encouraging news…[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-8 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-10″][vc_single_image image=”16168″ img_size=”full”][/vc_column][vc_column offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-8 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-10″ el_class=”lightc”][jig_vc][justified_image_grid ids=16175,16119,16169,16176 row_height=300 height_deviation=100 orderby=menu_order max_rows=1][/jig_vc][vc_column_text]Quetzaltenango, or Xela is the second largest city in Guatemala. The city is home to several major universities and sports centers.  It’s metropolitan vibe is a interesting contrast to the native villages that surround the city.
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Packing for the Unknown

Nothing about this is going to be easy…

After packing and repacking throughout the morning we finally got on the road – following the cobblestone roads out of Xela changing to the dump-truck battered roads of the highway. We crossed the plains getting ever closer towards our goal: the flanks of Volcan Santa Maria.

We had only been riding for an hour, and I was starting to get a nervous. Because my bike frame was so small I had to carry quite a bit of the weight on my back, and after only an hour of climbing it was starting to ache. This expedition was going to require a level of toughness and creativity that I hadn’t tapped into before.

The road changed from pavement to cobblestones and finally to gravel. I was off my bike pushing as the pain in my back became unbearable. When the grade eased up I took off the backpack and put it lengthwise across my handlebars, balancing it between my arms as I rode. Ah, much better.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”1/2″ offset=”vc_col-lg-4 vc_col-md-5″ el_class=”lightc”][/vc_column][vc_column parallax=”content-moving” offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-8 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-10″][vc_single_image image=”16120″ img_size=”full”][/vc_column][vc_column css=”.vc_custom_1553378724974{margin-top: 0px !important;margin-bottom: 40px !important;border-top-width: 0px !important;padding-top: 0px !important;}” offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-8 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-10 vc_col-xs-12″ el_class=”lightc”][vc_row_inner css=”.vc_custom_1553046251867{background-color: #f9f9f9 !important;}”][vc_column_inner css=”.vc_custom_1553046080167{background-color: #f9f9f9 !important;}” offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-1 vc_col-lg-10″][vc_column_text css=”.vc_custom_1553378708464{margin-right: 10px !important;}”]

Trash Everywhere.

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There are no words..

I finally spotted Brendan in the dump. He had stopped to take photos up on the plateau and in my stupor I had ridden right past him. He assumed I had seen him and didn’t call out to me, and I had been cranking along fast enough that he hadn’t been able to catch me. I wanted to be angry, but it was an honest mistake on both our parts, and it wouldn’t have helped anyone.

As I looked around at the remnants of people’s lives there in the dump, I realized: it all ends up here. When we buy things, we don’t often think of where they will end up when we break them or they are no longer useful to us.

In the US, “we” have the money to send the trash away or cover it up so we don’t have to see it. In Guatemala where they don’t have the money to hide it, it is on display. It’s all the same. It still exists, and we are all guilty.

saw a sight that literally stopped me in my tracks. What lied before me was a HUGE dump. Miles and miles of trash staked in giant heaps. From my position up the hill I could see wild dogs picking around, people sifting through piles, and smoke rising from trash fires.

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Contrasts.

Back on the trail to the mirador, after leaving the valley of burning trash behind, we climbed through the most beautiful cloud forest I had ever seen. We were riding on a ribbon of tacky, loamy singletrack, its dark brown color a stark contrast to the brilliant green on either side.

As darkness fell we donned our lights, and they sparkled off the dew collecting on the grasses and shrubs as we rode. In Guatemala’s dry season, where they can go for months without seeing rain, the dew serves to keep everything sustained until the rains come again.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”7/12″ offset=”vc_col-lg-4 vc_col-md-5″ el_class=”darkc”][vc_single_image image=”16172″ img_size=”full”][/vc_column][vc_column parallax=”content-moving” parallax_image=”16181″ parallax_speed_bg=”1.2″ offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-8 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-10 vc_col-xs-12″][vc_empty_space height=”500px”][vc_column_text css=”.vc_custom_1553391010533{margin-bottom: 0px !important;border-bottom-width: 0px !important;padding-right: 10px !important;padding-bottom: 0px !important;padding-left: 10px !important;background-color: rgba(2,2,2,0.44) !important;*background-color: rgb(2,2,2) !important;}”]Preparing the vegetarian staple of Protemás (dehydrated vegetable protein)
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Mirador Volcano Santiaguito  el. 2600m

We finally reached the mirador, and it was stunning. There was no moon – and the brilliant stars overhead matched the twinkling lights of the pueblos far below. In between was the Santiaguito massif. Smoke puffed silently from the volcano.

Night birds began their cheerful chatter, and we watched fog swirl in and out between us and the volcano as we cooked dinner. The smell at the mirador was unlike anything I’d ever experienced. A faint tinge of sulfur mixed with the crispness of the night air and the fresh scent of juicy foliage swelling to accept the dew forming, drinking the sweet nectar of night.

If I could bottle up the scent itself, even without the view, it would be priceless.

– Liz Sampey

[/vc_column_text][/vc_column_inner][/vc_row_inner][/vc_column][vc_column parallax=”content-moving” parallax_image=”16098″ parallax_speed_bg=”1.2″ offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-8 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-10 vc_col-xs-12″ css=”.vc_custom_1553464114562{margin-bottom: 0px !important;border-bottom-width: 0px !important;padding-bottom: 0px !important;}” el_class=”lightc”][vc_empty_space height=”500px”][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row full_width=”stretch_row_content_no_spaces” equal_height=”yes”][vc_column offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-8 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-10 vc_col-xs-12″ el_class=”darkc”][vc_text_separator title=”Gallery” title_align=”separator_align_left” el_class=”gallerytext” css=”.vc_custom_1553281638838{margin-right: 20px !important;margin-bottom: 20px !important;}”][jig_vc][justified_image_grid preset=c2 rml_id=410][/jig_vc][vc_column_text css=”.vc_custom_1553463674549{margin-top: 20px !important;padding-bottom: 20px !important;}”]

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[/vc_column_text][vc_separator color=”white” border_width=”2″][/vc_column][vc_column width=”7/12″ offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-5 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-6 vc_col-xs-12″ el_class=”darkc”][vc_column_text]Published: [date] by PICSPORADIC[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”1/6″ offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-0 vc_col-lg-1 vc_col-md-2 vc_col-xs-6″ css=”.vc_custom_1553465236947{background-color: #232323 !important;}”][vc_facebook type=”button_count” css=”.vc_custom_1553465014118{margin-top: 10px !important;}”][/vc_column][vc_column width=”1/4″ offset=”vc_col-lg-2 vc_col-md-2 vc_col-xs-6″ css=”.vc_custom_1553465224606{background-color: #232323 !important;}”][vc_tweetmeme css=”.vc_custom_1553465162962{margin-top: 10px !important;}”][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row full_width=”stretch_row_content_no_spaces” css=”.vc_custom_1553221985918{margin-right: 0px !important;margin-bottom: 0px !important;margin-left: 0px !important;border-bottom-width: 0px !important;border-left-width: 0px !important;}”][vc_column offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-8 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-10 vc_col-xs-12″ css=”.vc_custom_1553221967837{margin-bottom: 0px !important;border-bottom-width: 0px !important;padding-top: 40px !important;padding-bottom: 40px !important;background-color: #ffffff !important;}”][vc_row_inner equal_height=”yes” content_placement=”middle” css=”.vc_custom_1553221951013{border-top-width: 2px !important;border-right-width: 2px !important;border-bottom-width: 2px !important;border-left-width: 2px !important;padding-top: 20px !important;padding-right: 20px !important;padding-bottom: 20px !important;padding-left: 20px !important;background-color: #ffffff !important;border-left-style: none !important;border-right-style: none !important;border-top-style: none !important;border-bottom-style: none !important;}”][vc_column_inner width=”1/4″ offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-3 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-3 vc_col-sm-offset-2 vc_col-xs-offset-3 vc_col-xs-6″ css=”.vc_custom_1553126493581{padding-top: 20px !important;}”][vc_single_image image=”14941″ img_size=”large” alignment=”center” style=”vc_box_circle_2″ css=”.vc_custom_1522898070361{margin-bottom: 20px !important;}”][/vc_column_inner][vc_column_inner width=”5/12″ offset=”vc_col-lg-5 vc_col-md-5 vc_col-xs-12″ css=”.vc_custom_1522897768129{padding-left: 20px !important;}”][vc_custom_heading text=”Like what you read?” font_container=”tag:h2|font_size:24|text_align:left|color:%233f3f3f|line_height:20px” google_fonts=”font_family:Exo%3A100%2C100italic%2C200%2C200italic%2C300%2C300italic%2Cregular%2Citalic%2C500%2C500italic%2C600%2C600italic%2C700%2C700italic%2C800%2C800italic%2C900%2C900italic|font_style:700%20bold%20regular%3A700%3Anormal” el_class=”white”][vc_column_text]The best way you can support the work I do is through purchasing photos and prints on this site.

I love seeing my photos in print!

All photos here are available in high resolution – they can be downloaded and printed at up to 48in on the longest side. Prices start at $2.99

Check out the store for more: www.picsporadic.com/digital[/vc_column_text][/vc_column_inner][/vc_row_inner][/vc_column][/vc_row]