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  • Bikepacking Parque Villarrica – Part 2

    Bikepacking Parque Villarrica – Part 2

    [vc_row full_width=”stretch_row_content_no_spaces” full_height=”yes” parallax=”content-moving” parallax_image=”17342″ css=”.vc_custom_1554515587191{margin-top: 0px !important;margin-bottom: 0px !important;border-top-width: 0px !important;border-bottom-width: 0px !important;padding-top: 0px !important;padding-bottom: 0px !important;background-color: rgba(255,255,255,0.01) !important;*background-color: rgb(255,255,255) !important;}”][vc_column][vc_custom_heading text=”Bikepacking Villarrica” font_container=”tag:h2|font_size:50px|text_align:center|color:%23f9f9f9|line_height:80px” google_fonts=”font_family:Rock%20Salt%3Aregular|font_style:400%20regular%3A400%3Anormal”][vc_custom_heading text=”(Part 2) High on el sendero de las Avutardas” font_container=”tag:h5|text_align:center|color:%23f9f9f9″ use_theme_fonts=”yes” css=”.vc_custom_1554499308304{margin-right: 25px !important;margin-left: 25px !important;}”][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row full_width=”stretch_row_content” content_placement=”top” css=”.vc_custom_1553047827277{margin-top: 0px !important;margin-bottom: 0px !important;border-top-width: 5px !important;border-bottom-width: 4px !important;padding-top: 4px !important;padding-bottom: 4px !important;background-color: #ffffff !important;border-top-color: #777777 !important;border-top-style: outset !important;border-bottom-color: #777777 !important;border-bottom-style: outset !important;}”][vc_column width=”1/4″ offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-0 vc_col-md-offset-0 vc_col-md-3 vc_col-xs-12″ css=”.vc_custom_1522863410691{margin-bottom: 0px !important;border-bottom-width: 0px !important;padding-bottom: 0px !important;}”][vc_column_text el_class=”smalltext”]Published: [date] by PICSPORADIC [/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”5/12″ offset=”vc_hidden-md vc_hidden-sm vc_col-xs-2 vc_hidden-xs”][vc_column_text el_class=”smalltext” css=”.vc_custom_1554428110538{padding-top: 4px !important;}”]

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    El Sendero de las Avutardas

    My first few days in Parque Villarrica had wowed me with its diversity of volcanic terrain, glaciers and active volcanoes. The quest for vistas had me excessively pushing my bikepacking rig for small rewards of rideable trail. Yesterday I had been teased by my my first taste of singletrack – and I was eager to discover more.

    Here I got to see the earth in its most natural state – birthed from recent volcanic activity. From a world of ash nature was slowly constructing plants beginning with small patches of lichen and moss.

    Tent Bound

    In the night came the rain. I awoke with the tent enveloped in mist. The wind howled. I hunkered down. The weather pushed across the alpine lake throwing waves on the shore. It felt like I was in a different place than the one I arrived in the day before.

    I had underestimated the cold that came with along with this type of humidity – restless to get moving I layered up with the Gore-Tex and broke camp.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column css=”.vc_custom_1553221444521{border-bottom-width: 40px !important;}” offset=”vc_col-lg-3 vc_col-md-4 vc_col-xs-12″ el_class=”darkc”][vc_column_text css=”.vc_custom_1554398398459{margin-top: 30px !important;margin-right: 10px !important;margin-bottom: 20px !important;}”][ls_content_block slug=”brendan-james-bio” para=”paragraphs”][/vc_column_text][vc_column_text][tags][/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row full_width=”stretch_row_content_no_spaces” content_placement=”top” css=”.vc_custom_1554499446790{margin-top: 0px !important;margin-bottom: 0px !important;border-top-width: 0px !important;border-bottom-width: 0px !important;}”][vc_column css=”.vc_custom_1553040554697{margin-top: 0px !important;border-top-width: 0px !important;padding-top: 0px !important;}” offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-8 vc_col-md-offset-0 vc_col-md-12 vc_col-xs-12″][vc_single_image image=”17236″ img_size=”full” css=”.vc_custom_1554499485960{padding-bottom: 10px !important;}”][jig_vc][justified_image_grid ids=”17233,17234, 17320″ thumbs_spacing=10 row_height=350 height_deviation=100 orderby=menu_order max_rows=1 last_row=hide disable_cropping=no][/jig_vc][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row full_width=”stretch_row_content_no_spaces” equal_height=”yes” content_placement=”middle” css=”.vc_custom_1554504529778{margin-top: 0px !important;margin-bottom: 0px !important;border-top-width: 0px !important;border-bottom-width: 0px !important;background-color: #383838 !important;}”][vc_column width=”1/2″ offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-4 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-5 vc_col-xs-12″ el_class=”darkc”][vc_column_text]

    Lava and Ash

    Riding Across Raw Earth

    Visibility was limited by the mist and the rain came in bursts. I followed metal stakes that marked the route across the plains to the edge of an enormous field of cracked lava. I shuttered to think about carrying my bike across.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”1/2″ offset=”vc_col-lg-4 vc_col-md-5 vc_col-xs-12″ el_class=”darkc”][/vc_column][vc_column parallax=”content-moving” parallax_image=”17343″ offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-8 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-10″][vc_empty_space height=”70vh”][/vc_column][vc_column width=”5/12″ offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-4 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-5 vc_col-sm-offset-0 vc_col-xs-12″ el_class=”darkc”][vc_column_text]

    Suavé

    Black and ominous lava rock stretched across the valley. When looking at such a complex shape in such an enormity – it was impossible to process all its individual features – I saw only a massive grey blob.

    The trail dropped and I was surprised to find that it was relatively rideable by bike.  The track sinuously carving its way through features in the lava – taking the easiest line.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”7/12″ offset=”vc_col-lg-4 vc_col-md-5″ css=”.vc_custom_1554517562806{padding-right: 5px !important;padding-bottom: 20px !important;background-color: #232323 !important;}”][vc_single_image image=”17235″ img_size=”full” alignment=”center” onclick=”custom_link” img_link_target=”_blank” link=”https://www.picsporadic.com/items/BIGMTN-180218-118-G85″ css=”.vc_custom_1554505107718{margin-top: 35px !important;margin-right: 5px !important;margin-bottom: 5px !important;margin-left: 5px !important;border-top-width: 3px !important;border-right-width: 3px !important;border-bottom-width: 3px !important;border-left-width: 3px !important;}”][/vc_column][vc_column offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-8 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-10″][vc_single_image image=”17297″ img_size=”full”][/vc_column][vc_column el_class=”darkc” offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-8 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-10″][vc_column_text]

    From my experience biking on Volcanoes in Guatemala I proceeded carefully. The rock was sharp as glass and I did not carry an extra tire.

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    Expanses.

    The land here was raw, barren, massive. No trees. A land of sand and rock stretched below Volcán Quetrupillán.

    Tall cyclones of sand rose from the barren plains. There was nothing out here.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column_inner][vc_column_inner offset=”vc_hidden-sm vc_hidden-xs”][vc_empty_space height=”300px”][/vc_column_inner][/vc_row_inner][/vc_column][vc_column width=”7/12″ offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-4 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-5″ el_class=”lightc”][vc_single_image image=”17242″ img_size=”medium” onclick=”link_image” el_class=”whiteborder”][/vc_column][vc_column width=”5/12″ offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-0 vc_col-lg-4 vc_col-md-offset-0 vc_col-md-5 vc_col-sm-offset-0 vc_col-xs-12″ el_class=”lightc”][vc_column_text css=”.vc_custom_1554515930402{margin-top: 20px !important;}”]

    Hot rivers

    I came to a hot spring in ground. I could smell the sulfur in the air. This was one of the few places with vegetation and everything grew in bright neon. Florescent moss and odd shaped globe-tipped flowers were scattered across the area. Steam rose from the water.

    I felt as if I was witnessing the evolution of the planet. Nature here was slowly rebuilding itself after the volcanic eruptions. I was not high – only around 2000m – a forest could grow here, this was the blank slate.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column parallax=”content-moving” parallax_image=”17344″ offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-8 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-10″][vc_empty_space height=”400px”][/vc_column][vc_column width=”1/2″ offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-4 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-5 vc_col-xs-12″ el_class=”lightc”][vc_column_text css=”.vc_custom_1554517309524{margin-top: 20px !important;}”]

    Sand and Ash Flats

    In the wash it was too sandy to ride. I pushed along, struggling. The wind blew into my face and I couldn’t hear anything. – droplets of rain continued to fall from above. This would be perfect terrain for a fat bike I thought.

    The scale here was beginning to become apparent. It would take me hours to cross a valley only to get a view of another massive expanse. I kept referring to my GPS to make sure I was still on track.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”1/2″ offset=”vc_col-lg-4 vc_col-md-5 vc_col-xs-12″ el_class=”lightc”][vc_row_inner css=”.vc_custom_1554507157824{background-color: transparent !important;}”][vc_column_inner][vc_column_text]

    I meandered around enormous craters filled with dry lava. There was not just one volcano here – there were many.”

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    Imaginary Lines

    I was on the border with Argentina now – it was strange to have a line on a map here. In the distance was Volcán Lanín – a towering pyramid of rock and ice at over 3700m. I ate a snack and waited for the clouds to clear from it’s summit. They didn’t.

    I could see the forest below, and from my topo I could tell it was mostly downhill from here. Where had the day gone? I dropped through steep cliffs cut into fields of grass.

    I had expected to ride out today. I was at the end of day 4 and I was out of food.  I made a plan to push as much as I could into the dark and ride the rest tomorrow on an empty stomach.

    In the descent instead of sand, I battled mud. The trail dropped sharply and was slick with mud from the rain. I found myself hiking down most of it. Deep rivers cut through the landscape in every which way – they hadn’t found their direction yet. I crossed one, then another-taking of my clothes and lifting the bike over my head in the water. The sun waned.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”1/2″ offset=”vc_col-lg-4 vc_col-md-5 vc_col-xs-12″ css=”.vc_custom_1554517858016{padding-top: 20px !important;padding-bottom: 20px !important;background-color: #f9f9f9 !important;}”][vc_single_image image=”17336″ img_size=”full” alignment=”center” onclick=”custom_link” img_link_target=”_blank” link=”https://www.picsporadic.com/items/BIGMTN-180218-118-G85″ css=”.vc_custom_1554515722897{margin-top: 35px !important;margin-right: 5px !important;margin-bottom: 5px !important;margin-left: 5px !important;border-top-width: 3px !important;border-right-width: 3px !important;border-bottom-width: 3px !important;border-left-width: 3px !important;}”][vc_column_text css=”.vc_custom_1554519058647{padding-right: 10px !important;}”]

    The Singletrack in Parque Villarrica got better as I got lower.

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    The Last Meal

    Night fell and the forest was alive with the sound of birds. Moss clung to the trees and the mist came in adding to the atmosphere of the place – subtropical forest. I was back inside the green room below it’s thick boughs.

    At camp I prepared the last bit of food I had: about an ounce of quinoa, vegetable protein and a little cheese. It went quick.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”1/2″ offset=”vc_col-lg-4 vc_col-md-5″ el_class=”lightc”][vc_column_text]The sound of birds changed to crickets. “I am the only thing out of place here” I thought to myself – nature does just fine without us humans.

    The ride out tomorrow would take most of the day and I studied the map to try and plan my next step. All I could think about was food.

    I hadn’t seen anyone in 4 days.

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    In general I had under-estimated just how hard bikepacking across Villarrica would be.  In 4 days I had only done 65km. I was under prepared with food and needed to make an exit plan. 

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    The Morning After.

    The next morning I followed perfect singletrack – dropping out of the park. The forest was alive with flowers and everything shone golden and green. I flew on 4×4 roads, coming across the first signs of civilization – an old barn and some beef cows.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column_inner][vc_column_inner el_class=”lightc” width=”1/2″][vc_column_text css=”.vc_custom_1554514994743{padding-right: 10px !important;padding-left: 10px !important;}”]I passed a closed ranger station and found myself on a paved road. Clean cars zoomed past – to left it was 20km downhill to the nearest town, Curarruehue.  To the right: Argentina 100km to the nearest town San Martin de los Andes. I was completely out of food.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column_inner][/vc_row_inner][/vc_column][vc_column offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-8 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-10″ css=”.vc_custom_1554428045456{border-top-width: 5px !important;border-bottom-width: 5px !important;background-color: #f9f9f9 !important;border-top-color: #3f3f3f !important;border-top-style: solid !important;border-bottom-color: #3f3f3f !important;border-bottom-style: solid !important;}”][vc_single_image image=”17338″ img_size=”full”][/vc_column][vc_column el_class=”lightc” offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-8 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-10″][vc_row_inner css=”.vc_custom_1554431216722{margin-top: 30px !important;background-color: #f9f9f9 !important;}”][vc_column_inner offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-8″][vc_column_text]

    Man Without a Plan.

    I decided to bail to Curarrehue.  I stopped at the first general store I came across and loaded up on food – they didn’t have much.

    Night fell and I made camp by a river outside of town. I hadn’t been able to find burning alcohol and cooked on a small fire to conserve fuel.

    Parque Villarrica had been a stern introduction to the desolateness of Chile. I was used to frequent resupplies in Peru. Stores here were generally under stocked and overpriced – I would need to plan more.

    Tomorrow I would take a full rest day – recharging batteries and spirit before returning back to the mountains. I still had a border crossing to do in Argentina – a new country for me.

    -Brendan

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    Last light of day – camping by the river in Curarrehue.

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  • Bikepacking Parque Villarrica – Part 1 – Pucón Chile

    Bikepacking Parque Villarrica – Part 1 – Pucón Chile

    [vc_row full_width=”stretch_row_content_no_spaces” full_height=”yes” parallax=”content-moving” parallax_image=”17295″ css=”.vc_custom_1679113363670{margin-top: 0px !important;margin-bottom: 0px !important;border-top-width: 0px !important;border-bottom-width: 0px !important;padding-top: 0px !important;padding-bottom: 0px !important;background-color: rgba(255,255,255,0.01) !important;*background-color: rgb(255,255,255) !important;}”][vc_column][vc_custom_heading text=”Parque Villarrica” font_container=”tag:h2|font_size:50px|text_align:center|color:%23f9f9f9|line_height:80px” google_fonts=”font_family:Rock%20Salt%3Aregular|font_style:400%20regular%3A400%3Anormal”][vc_custom_heading text=”Bikepacking “el Sendero de Las Avutardas“ Pucón, Chile” font_container=”tag:h5|text_align:center|color:%23f9f9f9″ use_theme_fonts=”yes” css=”.vc_custom_1554424465126{margin-right: 25px !important;margin-left: 25px !important;}”][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row full_width=”stretch_row_content” content_placement=”top” css=”.vc_custom_1553047827277{margin-top: 0px !important;margin-bottom: 0px !important;border-top-width: 5px !important;border-bottom-width: 4px !important;padding-top: 4px !important;padding-bottom: 4px !important;background-color: #ffffff !important;border-top-color: #777777 !important;border-top-style: outset !important;border-bottom-color: #777777 !important;border-bottom-style: outset !important;}”][vc_column width=”1/4″ offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-0 vc_col-md-offset-0 vc_col-md-3 vc_col-xs-12″ css=”.vc_custom_1522863410691{margin-bottom: 0px !important;border-bottom-width: 0px !important;padding-bottom: 0px !important;}”][vc_column_text el_class=”smalltext”]Published: [date] by PICSPORADIC [/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”5/12″ offset=”vc_hidden-md vc_hidden-sm vc_col-xs-2 vc_hidden-xs”][vc_column_text css=”.vc_custom_1554428110538{padding-top: 4px !important;}” el_class=”smalltext”]

    All of the photos on this page can be purchased for download or print ? Visit store

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    The Freedom of Two Wheels

    Where To Next?

    My plan didn’t really solidify until I arrived in Pucón. I escaped Santiago Chile –a city in the midst of intense fires and high heat. For guidance I had a few basic gpx tracks – but no surefire route. My destiny was uncertain and and my moral low -Bikepacking to the rescue!

    El sendero de las Avutardas

    Looking at OSM maps – El sendero de las Avutardas grabbed my attention. The track traversed Parque Villarrica – passing several large lakes and volcanic cones. The track appeared desolate and remote – meandering along a high volcanic plains along on the border with Argentina.

    Would El sendero de las Avutardas be ridable by bike? And would I be deterred by recent national park closures due to wildfires? There was only one way to find out…[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column css=”.vc_custom_1553221444521{border-bottom-width: 40px !important;}” offset=”vc_col-lg-3 vc_col-md-4 vc_col-xs-12″ el_class=”darkc”][vc_column_text css=”.vc_custom_1554398398459{margin-top: 30px !important;margin-right: 10px !important;margin-bottom: 20px !important;}”][ls_content_block slug=”brendan-james-bio” para=”paragraphs”][/vc_column_text][vc_column_text][tags][/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row full_width=”stretch_row_content_no_spaces” content_placement=”top” css=”.vc_custom_1553040434877{margin-top: 0px !important;margin-bottom: 0px !important;border-top-width: 0px !important;border-bottom-width: 0px !important;background-color: #383838 !important;}”][vc_column css=”.vc_custom_1553040554697{margin-top: 0px !important;border-top-width: 0px !important;padding-top: 0px !important;}” offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-8 vc_col-md-offset-0 vc_col-md-12 vc_col-xs-12″][vc_single_image image=”17136″ img_size=”full” css=”.vc_custom_1554398981252{padding-bottom: 10px !important;}”][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row full_width=”stretch_row_content_no_spaces” equal_height=”yes” content_placement=”top” css=”.vc_custom_1745971414874{margin-top: 0px !important;margin-bottom: 30px !important;border-top-width: 0px !important;border-bottom-width: 0px !important;background-color: #383838 !important;}” min_height=”70vh”][vc_column parallax=”content-moving” parallax_image=”17217″ offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-8 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-10″][vc_empty_space height=”800px”][/vc_column][vc_column offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-8 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-10 vc_col-xs-12″ el_class=”lightc white”][vc_column_text]

    Santiago Chile

    Land of Fires and Smoke

    [/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”1/2″ offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-4 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-5 vc_col-sm-offset-0 vc_col-xs-12″ el_class=”lightc”][vc_column_text]It was the end of January and at the heart of summer in the southern hemisphere. Santiago was in the middle of a blistering heatwave. Daytime temperatures exceeded 100F and fires burned in the mountains.  The lovely cool Mediterranean climate had been replaced by air choked with smog and smoke.

    Across Chile burned enormous fires – authorities in the country were fighting three of the largest fires in history at the same time. CONAF, the Chilean National Park Service had responded by closing all the country’s national parks.l[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”1/2″ offset=”vc_col-lg-4 vc_col-md-5″ el_class=”lightc”][vc_column_text css=”.vc_custom_1554427997089{margin-right: 10px !important;}”]In Santiago I was staying at a friend’s house  in Las Condesas, an up-scale part of the city.  I had made connections with the mountain bike club and was becoming familiar with the local trails which traversed housing developments and high desert.  I had even won a major mountain bike race – held in wine vineyards at the outskirts of the city.

    My mind was not at ease. It had been a month and I had not sorted out the various media from my bikepacking trips in Peru.  The photos were stacking up and the stories weren’t coming.  I had been living out of the bike for almost 3 months. I had no income, all my ATM cards had been shut down and I was running on fumes.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-8 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-10″ css=”.vc_custom_1745971057920{margin-bottom: 0px !important;border-bottom-width: 5px !important;padding-bottom: 0px !important;border-bottom-style: solid !important;border-color: #565656 !important;}”][vc_row_inner css=”.vc_custom_1554427724582{border-top-width: 5px !important;background-color: #f9f9f9 !important;border-top-color: #565656 !important;border-top-style: solid !important;}”][vc_column_inner offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-8 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-10″ css=”.vc_custom_1554422912247{margin-top: 20px !important;margin-bottom: 20px !important;}”][vc_column_text]

    The Return to Bike-Bum-dom

    With my welcome wearing out at my friends house it was time to get back on the road and embrace the bike-bum lifestyle again. I was not a house dweller – I was a bike dweller! 

    I changed my last $200 in cash for the journey south – we would see how far it would last me.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column_inner][/vc_row_inner][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row full_width=”stretch_row_content_no_spaces” equal_height=”yes” content_placement=”top” css=”.vc_custom_1553126011238{margin-top: 0px !important;margin-bottom: 0px !important;border-top-width: 0px !important;border-bottom-width: 0px !important;background-color: #383838 !important;}”][vc_column parallax=”content-moving” parallax_image=”17117″ offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-8 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-10″][vc_empty_space height=”450px”][/vc_column][vc_column width=”5/12″ offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-4 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-5 vc_col-sm-offset-0 vc_col-xs-12″ el_class=”lightc”][vc_column_text]

    Pucón

    I left Santiago at 11pm on a night bus to Pucón – about 10h ours south of the capital. ($40) The ride was smooth and I awoke at sunrise in the final stretches of road along a forested highway. Below the bus was stowed my rig: a bit slimmed down from bikepacking missions in Peru with less cold-weather gear and a freshly fashioned beer can alcohol stove.

    On the bus ride we had passed through several ecosystems – descending from the hot, desert climate in Santiago through straights of vinyards. in Pucón, you could feel the difference in the air – which had more humidity, everything around was green.

    Pucón was a resort town full of boutiques and people wearing white pants. A cup of coffee was was $3. In the morning light we got our first views of the Villarrica volcano – a glaciated cone, with smoke that rose from it’s summit.

    It was Saturday, and Pucón was choked with foot and car traffic. Everyone seemed to be heading to the mountains on el Circuito Araucanía Lacustre – a scenic highway famed for its Araucaria trees . I felt overwhelmed.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”7/12″ css=”.vc_custom_1522889214749{padding-top: 5px !important;padding-right: 5px !important;background-color: #f9f9f9 !important;}” offset=”vc_col-lg-4 vc_col-md-5″][vc_single_image image=”17119″ img_size=”full” alignment=”center” onclick=”custom_link” img_link_target=”_blank” css=”.vc_custom_1554399551255{margin-top: 35px !important;margin-right: 5px !important;margin-bottom: 5px !important;margin-left: 5px !important;border-top-width: 3px !important;border-right-width: 3px !important;border-bottom-width: 3px !important;border-left-width: 3px !important;border-left-color: #ffffff !important;border-left-style: solid !important;border-right-color: #ffffff !important;border-right-style: solid !important;border-top-color: #ffffff !important;border-top-style: solid !important;border-bottom-color: #ffffff !important;border-bottom-style: solid !important;}” link=”https://www.picsporadic.com/items/BIGMTN-180218-118-G85″][vc_column_text css=”.vc_custom_1554428699488{padding-right: 10px !important;}”]

    Farm scenery outside of Pucón.
    [/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-8 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-10″ el_class=”lightc”][vc_column_text][jig_vc][justified_image_grid ids=”17123,17124,17120,17122″ row_height=250 height_deviation=200][/jig_vc][/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”1/2″ offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-4 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-5 vc_col-xs-12″ el_class=”lightc”][vc_column_text]

    A Lot Like Home

    How could a place so far away feel so familiar?

    The green pastures, and wooden barns here in the surroundings of Pucón reminded me a lot of home in Vermont. The mountains below the Villarrica volcano were bulky, steep and green.  I meandered along dirt roads to the back entrance of the National park. The grade was steady, and every time a car passed I would have to stop riding to let the powdery volcanic dust settle.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”1/2″ offset=”vc_col-lg-4 vc_col-md-5 vc_col-xs-12″ el_class=”lightc”][vc_column_text]I pulled off the highway and walked down to a rushing river for a swim. The nostalgia for home was coming on strong now. Here I was, at the farthest distance I had ever been from home – in the southern hemisphere – now coming full circle – how could a place so far away feel so familiar?

    I made it up to around 1000m and set up camp for the night in a woodlot.  The bugs came on strong and I operated the stove from inside the tent to keep them off. The beer can stove v2 worked a treat – boiling a pot full of water with about 2oz of alcohol.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row full_width=”stretch_row_content_no_spaces” equal_height=”yes” content_placement=”top”][vc_column parallax=”content-moving” parallax_image=”17127″ offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-8 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-10″][vc_row_inner css=”.vc_custom_1554402937220{background-color: transparent !important;}”][vc_column_inner width=”2/3″ css=”.vc_custom_1554424541292{margin-top: 100px !important;padding-top: 10px !important;padding-right: 10px !important;padding-bottom: 10px !important;padding-left: 10px !important;background-color: rgba(7,7,7,0.38) !important;*background-color: rgb(7,7,7) !important;border-radius: 5px !important;}” offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-6 vc_col-lg-6 vc_col-md-offset-6 vc_col-md-6 vc_col-sm-offset-4″][vc_column_text el_class=”white”]

    Hidden waterfalls

    In the morning I made my way down a steep path through brambles of bamboo following the sound of running water. To my surprise I found an enormous waterfall – at least 10m tall – with it’s rainbow mists filling the morning air. I was grateful that I had left the city.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column_inner][vc_column_inner offset=”vc_hidden-sm vc_hidden-xs”][vc_empty_space height=”300px”][/vc_column_inner][/vc_row_inner][/vc_column][vc_column width=”7/12″ offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-4 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-5″ el_class=”darkc”][vc_single_image image=”17138″ img_size=”medium” onclick=”link_image” el_class=”whiteborder”][vc_column_text el_class=”light smalltext”]After paying off the locals I was “free”. I just needed to be on the look out for the odd ranger who might reprimand me for being illegally inside the closed  National park.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”5/12″ offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-0 vc_col-lg-4 vc_col-md-offset-0 vc_col-md-5 vc_col-sm-offset-0 vc_col-xs-12″ el_class=”darkc”][vc_column_text css=”.vc_custom_1554423142106{margin-top: 20px !important;}”]

    The other Entrance Fee

    The logging road dead ended at a gate and small cabin with smoke rosing from the chimney. A woman called out to me from the field. She was a bit unusual, and invited me into the house for a talk – which mostly involved Jesus. She was baking bread in the woodstove and offered me a coffee. Her husband and her had been living off the land for the past few years – building up the cabin.

    With the park closed the only way to get into Villarrica was through their property – and they wanted to charge me. This seemed quite usual here in Chile where everything costed a ton. I argued a bit – but with me in their house, now drinking their coffee – there was no way around it and I paid them 10,000 pesos ($15) to pass.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column parallax=”content-moving” parallax_image=”17219″ offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-8 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-10″][vc_empty_space height=”400px”][/vc_column][vc_column width=”1/2″ offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-4 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-5 vc_col-xs-12″ el_class=”darkc”][vc_column_text css=”.vc_custom_1554405954840{margin-top: 20px !important;}”]

    A New Ecology

    I followed singletrack up through burned forests of stumps. Massive trees had been laid to waste by a huge wildfire that looked like it had past a few decades back. The land was a mix of bamboo shrubs and towering pines. Nothing about this ecology was familiar to me – all the trees were new.

    Entering the forest I was surrounded by towering cypress and Araucaria trees. -the path sharpened and I began hiking the bike.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”1/2″ offset=”vc_col-lg-4 vc_col-md-5 vc_col-xs-12″ el_class=”darkc”][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row full_width=”stretch_row_content_no_spaces” equal_height=”yes” content_placement=”middle”][vc_column offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-8 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-10″][vc_single_image image=”17132″ img_size=”full” onclick=”custom_link” img_link_target=”_blank” link=”https://www.picsporadic.com/items/BIGMTN-180221-220-G85″][/vc_column][vc_column width=”1/2″ offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-4 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-5 vc_col-xs-12″ el_class=”darkc”][vc_column_text]

    Following la ruta de los Avutardes

    The trail kept getting steeper until biking was no longer an option – I laced up the hiking shoes, shifted the weight onto my back and pushed onwards. At ~1500m I broke into a clearing of black ash. Leaving the forest so abruptly it felt like I was stepping into another room.

    The single track was worn deep in florescent grass across rolling hills of volcanic debris. In the distance was the cone of an enormous volcano with patches of winter snow still clinging to its slopes.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”1/2″ offset=”vc_col-lg-4 vc_col-md-5 vc_col-xs-12″ el_class=”darkc”][vc_column_text]I was only at around 1800m but it felt like I was much higher. The land here was raw like the aplne – the ground was made of sharp black, volcanic rock. Blobs of multi-colored mineral deposits adorned the horizon.  It was clear that the earth here was still very young. I pushed the bike around enormous craters of sand.

    The mountains rose ahead and I carried my loaded bike up the final slope. In the waning sun to the south, were the ripping jagged mountains of Patagonia. To the east rose Volcán Lanín in Argentina – a massive 4000m volcano capped by a large glacier. I mounted the bike and began to ride.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row full_width=”stretch_row_content_no_spaces” equal_height=”yes” content_placement=”top” css=”.vc_custom_1493316115647{margin-top: 0px !important;margin-bottom: 0px !important;border-top-width: 0px !important;border-bottom-width: 0px !important;background-color: #383838 !important;}”][vc_column parallax=”content-moving” parallax_image=”17143″ offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-8 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-10 vc_col-xs-12″ css=”.vc_custom_1554431484904{border-bottom-width: 5px !important;border-bottom-color: #3f3f3f !important;border-bottom-style: solid !important;}”][vc_empty_space height=”400px”][/vc_column][vc_column width=”1/2″ offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-4 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-5 vc_col-sm-offset-0 vc_col-xs-12″ el_class=”lightc”][vc_column_text]I followed the flowing trail through patches of snow down to the shores of a large lake – the ride was fantastic. The descent, along with the views and the sunset had been exhilarating.  The last bit of sun twinkled on the waters and I watched as a cold shadow crept across the valley. El sendero de las Avutardes had far exceeded my expectations.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”1/2″ offset=”vc_col-lg-4 vc_col-md-5″ el_class=”lightc”][vc_column_text css=”.vc_custom_1554425493377{margin-right: 10px !important;}”]The land here was still very new and virgin. You could see how nature was slowly taking over the new earth formed by the volcanoes. The sound of birds filled the air – when dusk came bats swarmed the skies. This was one of the most pristine and natural places I had ever been.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-8 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-10″ css=”.vc_custom_1554428045456{border-top-width: 5px !important;border-bottom-width: 5px !important;background-color: #f9f9f9 !important;border-top-color: #3f3f3f !important;border-top-style: solid !important;border-bottom-color: #3f3f3f !important;border-bottom-style: solid !important;}”][vc_single_image image=”17153″ img_size=”full”][/vc_column][vc_column el_class=”lightc” offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-8 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-10″][vc_row_inner css=”.vc_custom_1554431216722{margin-top: 30px !important;background-color: #f9f9f9 !important;}”][vc_column_inner offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-8″][vc_column_text]

    Sunset.

    I spent the night alone – I had the entire national park to myself. Tomorrow I would cross the lava field and the horizon towards Argentina. Today I done only 20km today and still had over 60km to ride. I onboard with me 2 days of food. I reveled in the idea of what tomorrow would bring.

    -Brendan

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    Laguna los Patos – Parque Villarrica

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    View Full Gallery

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     [views]
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  • Laguna Coñocranra – Highpoint of the Cordillera Negra

    Laguna Coñocranra – Highpoint of the Cordillera Negra

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    The Cordillera Negra

    Coñocranra 5150m (16,896 ft)

    Our tires clamored along rough roads and for the first time in nearly 4 days of bikepacking we stopped climbing. At nearly 14,000ft there were massive landscapes at every turn. Chunky, morphic peaks rose on the horizon – their couloirs laden with mineral deposits. Everything here was the color of brown rust.  Folded fault lines dipped into bottomless valleys.  On el Camino Silencio we saw no one.

    Gusts of wind bent the grass in waves -fluttering across the plains. When the winds passed the air would be left silent and still.  Liz and I devoured the open space. I would ride ahead – pausing to take pictures and she would hopscotch me  – pushing into the lead. She was doing much better here then in the desert below.

    We were out of water and pushed the pace. We searched the landscape for lakes which we had on our map – but around each corner we would only find more vistas and dried expanses. We were on el camino silencio: a desolate stretch of road at 14,000ft with only had the odd furry Andean cow to keep us company.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column css=”.vc_custom_1553221444521{border-bottom-width: 40px !important;}” offset=”vc_col-lg-3 vc_col-md-4 vc_col-xs-12″ el_class=”darkc”][vc_column_text][ls_content_block slug=”expedition-ancash-sidebar” para=”paragraphs”][/vc_column_text][vc_column_text][tags][/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column css=”.vc_custom_1553289367390{margin-bottom: 40px !important;}”][/vc_column][vc_column parallax=”content-moving” parallax_image=”15877″ css=”.vc_custom_1553288230044{border-top-width: 0px !important;padding-top: 0px !important;}” offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-8 vc_col-md-offset-0 vc_col-md-12 vc_col-xs-12″][vc_empty_space height=”70vh”][/vc_column][vc_column offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-8 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-10 vc_col-xs-12″ el_class=”lightc”][jig_vc][justified_image_grid ids=”15676,15882,15920″ thumbs_spacing=10 row_height=375 height_deviation=100 orderby=menu_order max_rows=1 disable_cropping=no][/jig_vc][vc_column_text]

    Where is the Water?

    Challenges in the Dry Mountain Range

    [/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”1/2″ offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-4 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-5 vc_col-sm-offset-0 vc_col-xs-12″ el_class=”lightc”][vc_column_text]Although we had only used the Steripen a handful of times it was becoming problematic – erratically flashing and not doing it’s job. I was charging the Seripen with my dynohub via USB. It would take hours just to charge it up to sterilize a single bottle. We carried the dirty water in water bottles on our forks, sterilizing it with the pen – before dumping it in our hydration bladders with the second filter. Our system was working but it was fragile.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”1/2″ offset=”vc_col-lg-4 vc_col-md-5″ el_class=”lightc”][vc_column_text css=”.vc_custom_1555515562467{margin-right: 10px !important;}”]Liz and I eventually encountered a seep of water on the side of the road. Droplets trickled out of a tuft of moss. It was the only spring for miles and the cows knew it – all around us were their pattys. After getting deathly stomach sick on other expeditions in Guatemala – we were using a double purification system which included inline Sawyer Mini water filters and the aformentioned Steripen portable UV filter.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-8 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-10″ css=”.vc_custom_1555469857103{margin-top: 0px !important;border-top-width: 0px !important;padding-top: 0px !important;}”][vc_single_image image=”15889″ img_size=”full”][vc_column_text el_class=”white” css=”.vc_custom_1555515579000{padding-right: 10px !important;padding-left: 10px !important;background-color: #232323 !important;}”]Crossing the desolate and remote Cordillera Negra (black) mountain range. The vastness of the space – and size of these dark mountains made us feel small on our bicycles.
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    Laguna Coñocranra

    An Alpine Space

    It was mid afternoon when we rode up to Laguna Coñocranra, a serene lake below a towering mountain of rock.  All around us were ancient herding structures and stone walls, no one was around – only a few curious cows. Coñocranra is the largest peaks in the Cordillera Negra at 5150m (16,900ft) – but from our vantage at 14,500ft high it appeared small. I stayed to make camp and Liz went to go exploring  – scrambling on the cliffs at the opposite side of the lake.

    Coñocranra was a pristine oasis. Spring-fed water gurgled in channels through the Andean grass – feeding a diverse variety of plants and cactus.  The only thing out of place here were the numerous cattle that grazed on the lake’s shore – Their fur grown thick from the cold nights spent at elevation.

    An afternoon shadow crept across the lake and the temperature plummeted. Liz returned and we prepared dinner. With temperatures dropping we quickly put on every layer of clothing we had and went straight to bed! Part of my weakness on this trip was my  old sleeping bag – which I pushed far past it’s rating of 40° F. That night our water froze.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”1/2″ offset=”vc_col-lg-4 vc_col-md-5″ el_class=”lightc”][vc_single_image image=”15920″ img_size=”large” onclick=”custom_link” img_link_target=”_blank” link=”https://www.picsporadic.com/items/BIGMTN-180218-118-G85″ css=”.vc_custom_1553286796102{margin-bottom: 5px !important;padding-left: 10px !important;}”][/vc_column][vc_column offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-8 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-10″][vc_single_image image=”15880″ img_size=”full”][/vc_column][vc_column offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-8 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-10″ el_class=”lightc”][jig_vc][justified_image_grid ids=15919,15923,15927][/jig_vc][/vc_column][vc_column width=”1/2″ offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-4 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-5 vc_col-xs-12″ el_class=”lightc”][vc_column_text css=”.vc_custom_1555556680839{margin-right: 10px !important;}”]

    Highpoint

    The next day before we broke camp I climbed up to a neighboring slope to catch the first rays of sun – thawing out my body. I watched the light change and the shadows pull across the valley. After 5 days outdoors I felt a switch – and was content to simply watch the landscape change.  So much time in the outdoors can be spent watching the light change.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”1/2″ el_class=”lightc” offset=”vc_col-lg-4 vc_col-md-5 vc_col-xs-12″][vc_column_text]We continued on the road – passing through a myriad of lakes all-the-while climbing. Our destination was a pass at 15,000ft – the last summit before descending down to el Cañon de Pato and the Callejón de Huaylas. We walked the bikes up the last bit of rocky road – steep and worn loose by four wheel drive trucks.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column css=”.vc_custom_1553280596639{margin-top: 0px !important;margin-bottom: 40px !important;border-top-width: 0px !important;padding-top: 0px !important;background-color: #f9f9f9 !important;}” offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-8 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-10 vc_col-xs-12″][vc_single_image image=”15928″ img_size=”full” onclick=”custom_link” img_link_target=”_blank” css=”.vc_custom_1553285371819{padding-top: 5px !important;padding-right: 5px !important;padding-bottom: 5px !important;padding-left: 5px !important;}” link=”https://www.picsporadic.com/items/BIGMTN-180221-220-G85″][vc_column_text css=”.vc_custom_1555557159062{padding-right: 10px !important;padding-left: 10px !important;}”]

    Winding roads of the Cordillera Negra zig-zagging down impossible slopes. |?

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    Up and Over

    The slope was our final challenge after days of climbing with the heavy bikes. As I breathed the thin air hiking the load I yearned to see what lied on the other side. At over 15,000ft were still on mere sub-range and had yet catch our first views of the Cordillera Blanca: the highest tropical mountain range in the world.

    #expeditionancash

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    Stars and full moon camping at Laguna Coñocranra – 4000m Peru
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    View Full Gallery

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  • Camino Silencio – Bikepacking the Cordillera Negra Peru

    Camino Silencio – Bikepacking the Cordillera Negra Peru

    [vc_row full_width=”stretch_row_content_no_spaces” full_height=”yes” parallax=”content-moving” parallax_image=”17402″ css=”.vc_custom_1554844682635{margin-top: 0px !important;margin-bottom: 0px !important;border-top-width: 0px !important;border-bottom-width: 0px !important;padding-top: 0px !important;padding-bottom: 0px !important;background-color: rgba(255,255,255,0.01) !important;*background-color: rgb(255,255,255) !important;}”][vc_column][vc_custom_heading text=”Camino Silencio” font_container=”tag:h2|font_size:50px|text_align:center|color:%23f9f9f9|line_height:80px” google_fonts=”font_family:Rock%20Salt%3Aregular|font_style:400%20regular%3A400%3Anormal”][vc_custom_heading text=”Bikepacking the Cordillera Negra Peru” font_container=”tag:h5|text_align:center|color:%23f9f9f9″ use_theme_fonts=”yes” css=”.vc_custom_1554142288937{margin-right: 25px !important;margin-left: 25px !important;}”][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row full_width=”stretch_row_content” content_placement=”top” css=”.vc_custom_1553047827277{margin-top: 0px !important;margin-bottom: 0px !important;border-top-width: 5px !important;border-bottom-width: 4px !important;padding-top: 4px !important;padding-bottom: 4px !important;background-color: #ffffff !important;border-top-color: #777777 !important;border-top-style: outset !important;border-bottom-color: #777777 !important;border-bottom-style: outset !important;}”][vc_column width=”1/4″ offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-0 vc_col-md-offset-0 vc_col-md-3 vc_col-xs-12″ css=”.vc_custom_1522863410691{margin-bottom: 0px !important;border-bottom-width: 0px !important;padding-bottom: 0px !important;}”][vc_column_text el_class=”smalltext”]Published: [date] by PICSPORADIC [/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”5/12″ offset=”vc_hidden-md vc_hidden-sm vc_col-xs-2 vc_hidden-xs”][vc_column_text el_class=”smalltext”]

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    El Camino Silencio

    Crossing the Remote and Desolate Cordillera Negra, Peru

    We awoke on the floor of the restaurant when the first guests arrived around 5am. Clinging onto our last moments of sleep we rustled in our sleeping bags as people ate softly behind us. After a bit we dusted ourselves off -rolling up our sleeping bags and packed up the bikes. By this point there were at least 10 people eating  but they hardly gave us a second look.

    Jimbe: the gateway to the high mountains of Peru. The town was the last civilized center and the end of the paved road. The central park had a selection of beautifully pruned topiary figurines – a Peruvian staple.

    jimbe

    Liz and I were at odds with what route to take. Our original plan was to follow a faint track that switchbacked from Jimbe up to the high passes at 15,000ft. We had only been on the bikes 2 days and it seemed a little ambitious. In the end we decided to take a longer route up – by our calculation we would be climbing for the next 2 days. There would be no food, and probably no water so we stocked up…[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column css=”.vc_custom_1553221444521{border-bottom-width: 40px !important;}” offset=”vc_col-lg-3 vc_col-md-4 vc_col-xs-12″ el_class=”darkc”][vc_column_text css=”.vc_custom_1554146601739{margin-top: 30px !important;margin-right: 10px !important;margin-bottom: 20px !important;}”][ls_content_block slug=”expedition-ancash-sidebar” para=”paragraphs”][/vc_column_text][vc_column_text][tags][/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row full_width=”stretch_row_content_no_spaces” content_placement=”top” css=”.vc_custom_1553040434877{margin-top: 0px !important;margin-bottom: 0px !important;border-top-width: 0px !important;border-bottom-width: 0px !important;background-color: #383838 !important;}”][vc_column css=”.vc_custom_1553040554697{margin-top: 0px !important;border-top-width: 0px !important;padding-top: 0px !important;}” offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-8 vc_col-md-offset-0 vc_col-md-12 vc_col-xs-12″][vc_single_image image=”17397″ img_size=”full” css=”.vc_custom_1554843999884{padding-bottom: 10px !important;}”][jig_vc][justified_image_grid ids=”17390,17393,17391″ thumbs_spacing=10 row_height=450 height_deviation=100 orderby=menu_order max_rows=1 last_row=hide disable_cropping=no][/jig_vc][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row full_width=”stretch_row_content_no_spaces” equal_height=”yes” content_placement=”top” css=”.vc_custom_1553126011238{margin-top: 0px !important;margin-bottom: 0px !important;border-top-width: 0px !important;border-bottom-width: 0px !important;background-color: #383838 !important;}”][vc_column width=”5/12″ offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-4 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-5 vc_col-sm-offset-0 vc_col-xs-12″ el_class=”lightc”][vc_column_text css=”.vc_custom_1553290079682{margin-top: 30px !important;}”]

    Bikepacking the Cordillera Negra

    “It’s all uphill from here”

    Liz was not feeling well, she was used to excelling on the bicycle –and with the added weight of the bikepacking rig I could tell she was out of her comfort zone. She dipped into her easiest gear and fell back on the climb.

    We cut along a deep vallies, all the while ascending before encountering our first steep switchbacks in the road. Elevation 6,000ft.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”7/12″ css=”.vc_custom_1522889214749{padding-top: 5px !important;padding-right: 5px !important;background-color: #f9f9f9 !important;}” offset=”vc_col-lg-4 vc_col-md-5″][vc_single_image image=”17395″ img_size=”full” onclick=”custom_link” img_link_target=”_blank” link=”https://www.picsporadic.com/items/BIGMTN-180218-118-G85″ css=”.vc_custom_1554844042850{margin-top: 35px !important;margin-right: 5px !important;margin-bottom: 5px !important;margin-left: 5px !important;border-top-width: 3px !important;border-right-width: 3px !important;border-bottom-width: 3px !important;border-left-width: 3px !important;border-left-color: #ffffff !important;border-left-style: solid !important;border-right-color: #ffffff !important;border-right-style: solid !important;border-top-color: #ffffff !important;border-top-style: solid !important;border-bottom-color: #ffffff !important;border-bottom-style: solid !important;}”][vc_column_text css=”.vc_custom_1554737711888{margin-right: 20px !important;}”]

    Just buckle up and do it. – Liz Sampey

    [/vc_column_text][jig_vc][/jig_vc][/vc_column][vc_column width=”1/2″ offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-4 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-5 vc_col-xs-12″ el_class=”lightc”][vc_column_text]Arriving in the small town of Lampanín we looked up at the road ahead: it zig-zagged as far as we could see on bare, shade-less slopes – joining with the horizon and into the unknown. We visited the tienda in town to escape the sun and ordered up a liter of beer. It was high-noon. Outside, dogs perched in small puddles of shade. A few goat herders wandered through town – the sound of television sets floated up from the tin homes. Siesta time.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”1/2″ offset=”vc_col-lg-4 vc_col-md-5 vc_col-xs-12″ el_class=”lightc”][vc_column_text]Inside was a dread that neither of us wanted to talk about. Lampanín was the last point on our map. Our next re-supply wouldn’t be for at least 3 days of climbing ton the 15,000ft passes of the Cordillera Negra. I knew we would be fine, but we were both stuck in the last moments of apprehension before taking the jump. About 3pm we headed out – water bottles full, up the switchbacks to the mountains.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row full_width=”stretch_row_content_no_spaces” equal_height=”yes” content_placement=”top” css=”.vc_custom_1493316115647{margin-top: 0px !important;margin-bottom: 0px !important;border-top-width: 0px !important;border-bottom-width: 0px !important;background-color: #383838 !important;}”][vc_column parallax=”content-moving” parallax_image=”15737″ offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-8 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-10″][vc_empty_space height=”70vh”][/vc_column][vc_column offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-8 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-10 vc_col-xs-12″ el_class=”lightc”][vc_column_text]

    The Dead Zone

    [/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”1/2″ offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-4 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-5 vc_col-sm-offset-0 vc_col-xs-12″ el_class=”lightc”][vc_column_text]The sun lowered in the sky as we climbed and around us the mountains began to gain definition – their ragged slopes and rippling ridges spread in stacked layers on the horizon. Above us, enormous peaks came into view – rocky, black, ominous. The black mountain range: La Cordillera Negra.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”1/2″ offset=”vc_col-lg-4 vc_col-md-5″ el_class=”lightc”][vc_column_text css=”.vc_custom_1553479522583{margin-right: 10px !important;}”]The only traffic we saw on the road was a taxi driver who cheerfully pulled over and jumped out of his car for a conversation. He told us the road went to Huaylas – which was good news. He told us that it was camino silencio -a silent road used by only by the occasional maintenance workers as access remote mountain reservoirs. We continued on.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row full_width=”stretch_row_content_no_spaces” equal_height=”yes” content_placement=”top”][vc_column css=”.vc_custom_1553119970777{background-color: #232323 !important;}” offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-8 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-10″][vc_single_image image=”17392″ img_size=”full”][/vc_column][vc_column width=”7/12″ offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-4 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-5″ el_class=”darkc”][vc_single_image image=”17394″ img_size=”large” onclick=”custom_link” img_link_target=”_blank” link=”https://www.picsporadic.com/items/BIGMTN-180218-118-G85″ el_class=”whiteborder”][vc_column_text el_class=”light smalltext”] A young child was wandering around half dressed eating chicken poop off the ground – he offered me some stuck to the tip of his small finger, I declined.[/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=”15659″ img_size=”medium” onclick=”link_image” el_class=”whiteborder”][/vc_column][vc_column width=”5/12″ offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-0 vc_col-lg-4 vc_col-md-offset-0 vc_col-md-5 vc_col-sm-offset-0 vc_col-xs-12″ el_class=”darkc”][vc_column_text css=”.vc_custom_1553479650303{margin-top: 20px !important;}”]

    Quilcoy – a Small Town in the Foothills of the Andes

    After camping at 8,000ft we headed out the next morning. The air was pleasant and cool -we continued the climb. We came to an intersection with a sign for a place called Quilcay – an out-and-back not that was not on our map. We gambled, figuring that it might be a good resupply and headed up.

    The altitude was beginning to effect us. In Quilcoy I was dazed and stumbled into a school for shade. I talked to a traveling teacher who made the 5hr drive twice a week to teach the handful of kids that lived there. She was a bit in a hurry, and eagerly awaiting the bus that would come and pick her up that day – and tame her back down to civilization. Outside in the mid-day sun the town was a cacophony of animals: dogs, sheep, goats, chickens and pigs scampered around.

    We bought some eggs off the locals and I had the stove going outside to boil them. Liz and I were feeling the elevation – the last two days we had not done that much distance but we had climbed over 10,000ft. I was ready to either get moving or take a nap. The women of the town poked out of their houses and eventually came to talk to us – they said the men were coming back from the fields soon and invited us for lunch. “when?” we asked – “in a little bit”. We both waited for what seemed like hours.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”1/2″ offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-4 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-5 vc_col-xs-12″ el_class=”darkc”][vc_column_text el_class=”light”]When the men arrived they were a bit more reserved than the others, giving us a few shy nods before dipping into a low doorway for lunch. The women invited us in.  Their home was made of crude adobe – with slivers of light cutting through the bricks in the walls. The ceiling was stained black from smoke. On the television played telenovelas – whose white actors and made-up faces beckoned like a glimmering portal to a culture a world away.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”1/2″ offset=”vc_col-lg-4 vc_col-md-5 vc_col-xs-12″ el_class=”darkc”][vc_column_text el_class=”light”]Over a delicious plate of of steamed potatoes and rice the men told us that there was a trail that left from town – crossing the high mountains. That same phrase came up again “Camino Silencio” which they used to refer to the pass to Huaylas. Very few people go there, and the men said they had said they had never gone. So we still didn’t know what lied ahead for us…[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row full_width=”stretch_row_content_no_spaces” equal_height=”yes” content_placement=”middle”][vc_column offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-8 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-10″][vc_single_image image=”15743″ img_size=”full” onclick=”custom_link” img_link_target=”_blank” link=”https://www.picsporadic.com/items/BIGMTN-180221-220-G85″][/vc_column][vc_column width=”1/2″ offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-4 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-5 vc_col-xs-12″ el_class=”darkc”][vc_column_text]

    Following “el Camino Silencio”

    The women refused our payment – repeatedly, and with a whirlwind of thanks and group photos we were on our way -pushing our bikes up the slopes out of town. The road ended and we found ourselves on our first trail of the trip – too steep to bike. We encountered several sections of rock steps and made our way around an out-cropping along a cliff. A woman trailed us with a horse below -keeping her distance. Perhaps she was keeping an eye on us?[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”1/2″ offset=”vc_col-lg-4 vc_col-md-5 vc_col-xs-12″ el_class=”darkc”][vc_column_text]The trail mellowed and we got in brief moments of riding which brought some joy for the first time in a few days. It was much more rocky here  – and the mountains ahead rose in huge vertical cliffs forming a passage.. The light was fading. We were at 13,000ft and it was getting cold. It was clear that we had entered a new environment.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row full_width=”stretch_row_content_no_spaces” equal_height=”yes” content_placement=”top” css=”.vc_custom_1553221858574{margin-top: 0px !important;margin-bottom: 0px !important;border-top-width: 0px !important;border-bottom-width: 0px !important;}”][vc_column parallax=”content-moving” parallax_image=”15667″ offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-8 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-10″][vc_empty_space height=”55vh”][/vc_column][vc_column offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-8 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-10 vc_col-xs-12″ el_class=”lightc”][jig_vc][justified_image_grid ids=”15668, 15666, 17396″ thumbs_spacing=10 row_height=300 height_deviation=100 margin=5px orderby=menu_order max_rows=1 disable_cropping=no][/jig_vc][vc_column_text css=”.vc_custom_1554737753878{margin-left: 20px !important;}”]

    Sunset

    [/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”1/2″ offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-4 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-5 vc_col-sm-offset-0 vc_col-xs-12″ el_class=”lightc”][vc_column_text]The sunset started slowly, colors growing warmer. We layered up preparing for the cold to come. We were quite high now and in the desert below us showered golden rays of light cutting across the coastal plains it’s sub-ranges, mountains and ravines. It was clear the ocean -some 13,000ft below where we had started 3 days before. The sun dipped into the  shimmering horizon.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”1/2″ offset=”vc_col-lg-4 vc_col-md-5″ el_class=”lightc”][vc_column_text css=”.vc_custom_1553222608042{margin-right: 10px !important;}”]In the afterglow everything was gold. The light faded from crimson to violet and indigo – stacked in layers all the while shifting with rays of residual light. We both agreed this was the most fantastic sunset we had ever seen and were frozen in awe.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row full_width=”stretch_row_content_no_spaces” equal_height=”yes” content_placement=”middle” css=”.vc_custom_1553221878794{margin-top: 40px !important;margin-bottom: 0px !important;border-top-width: 0px !important;border-bottom-width: 0px !important;}”][vc_column parallax=”content-moving” parallax_speed_bg=”1.2″ offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-8 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-10″][vc_single_image image=”15669″ img_size=”full” css=”.vc_custom_1553124594201{border: 5px solid #ffffff !important;}”][/vc_column][vc_column offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-8 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-10 vc_col-sm-offset-0 vc_col-xs-12″ el_class=”lightc”][vc_row_inner css=”.vc_custom_1553125157104{background-color: #f9f9f9 !important;}”][vc_column_inner css=”.vc_custom_1553224426854{background-color: #f9f9f9 !important;}” offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-8 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-10″][vc_column_text]

    Entering the Aline (a Familiar Place)

    Off the beaten track Liz and I immediately felt more at home and relaxed. Everything we had carted across the desert seemed less impractical now. We set up camp and bundled up in the cold. For dinner we had hastily prepared sandwich of hard boiled eggs and bread sprinkled with ají. The journey had begun. We had entered the Andes…

    – #expeditionancash

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    One of the few places in the world where the sun sets below you. Camp at 13,000ft with views down to the Pacific. |?

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    View Full Gallery

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  • Coast to Jimbe – Bikepacking the Peruvian Coast

    Coast to Jimbe – Bikepacking the Peruvian Coast

    [vc_row full_width=”stretch_row_content_no_spaces” full_height=”yes” parallax=”content-moving” parallax_image=”15601″ css=”.vc_custom_1553281468563{margin-top: 0px !important;margin-bottom: 0px !important;border-top-width: 0px !important;border-bottom-width: 0px !important;padding-top: 0px !important;padding-bottom: 0px !important;background-color: rgba(255,255,255,0.01) !important;*background-color: rgb(255,255,255) !important;}”][vc_column][vc_custom_heading text=”From the Coast” font_container=”tag:h1|text_align:center|color:%23f9f9f9″ use_theme_fonts=”yes”][vc_custom_heading text=”Expedition Ancash Day 1″ font_container=”tag:h5|text_align:center|color:%23f9f9f9″ use_theme_fonts=”yes” css=”.vc_custom_1554137406409{margin-right: 25px !important;margin-left: 25px !important;}”][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row full_width=”stretch_row_content” content_placement=”top” css=”.vc_custom_1553047827277{margin-top: 0px !important;margin-bottom: 0px !important;border-top-width: 5px !important;border-bottom-width: 4px !important;padding-top: 4px !important;padding-bottom: 4px !important;background-color: #ffffff !important;border-top-color: #777777 !important;border-top-style: outset !important;border-bottom-color: #777777 !important;border-bottom-style: outset !important;}”][vc_column width=”1/4″ offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-0 vc_col-md-offset-0 vc_col-md-3 vc_col-xs-12″ css=”.vc_custom_1522863410691{margin-bottom: 0px !important;border-bottom-width: 0px !important;padding-bottom: 0px !important;}”][vc_column_text el_class=”smalltext”]Published: [date] by PICSPORADIC[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”5/12″ offset=”vc_hidden-md vc_hidden-sm vc_col-xs-2 vc_hidden-xs”][vc_column_text el_class=”smalltext”]All of the photos on this page can be purchased for download or print ? Visit store[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”1/12″ offset=”vc_col-xs-3″ css=”.vc_custom_1522975589935{margin-bottom: 0px !important;border-bottom-width: 0px !important;padding-bottom: 0px !important;}”][vc_facebook type=”button_count” css=”.vc_custom_1490816047681{margin-top: 4px !important;}”][/vc_column][vc_column width=”1/12″ offset=”vc_col-xs-3″ css=”.vc_custom_1522975656647{margin-bottom: 0px !important;border-bottom-width: 0px !important;padding-bottom: 0px !important;padding-left: 20px !important;}”][vc_tweetmeme share_via=”picsporadic” css=”.vc_custom_1554138317106{margin-top: 4px !important;}”][/vc_column][vc_column width=”1/6″ offset=”vc_col-xs-6″ css=”.vc_custom_1522975582023{margin-top: 0px !important;margin-bottom: 0px !important;border-top-width: 0px !important;border-bottom-width: 0px !important;padding-top: 4px !important;padding-bottom: 0px !important;}”][vc_column_text el_class=”smalltext”][views] [comments][/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row full_width=”stretch_row_content_no_spaces” equal_height=”yes” content_placement=”middle” css=”.vc_custom_1553292169821{margin-top: 0px !important;margin-bottom: 0px !important;border-top-width: 0px !important;border-bottom-width: 0px !important;}”][vc_column offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-5 vc_col-md-offset-0 vc_col-md-8 vc_col-sm-offset-0 vc_col-xs-12″ el_class=”darkc”][vc_column_text el_class=”light”]

    Peru.

    Bikepacking from the western coast to the foothills of the Cordillera Negra

    We stand on the side of the Pan-American highway near the fishing port of Samanco – this wasn’t an official bus stop -we were at an intersection of roads. To the west: across myriad of sand dunes was the Pacific ocean, to the east was our objective: The Cordillera Negra who’s shadowy peaks towered at 16,000ft above sea level. It was hot. Our first feelings: scattered, doubtful, apprehensive.

    After 3 days of travel we were here, carrying everything we would need for the next 40 days on the bike. “I brought too much stuff” Liz stated, fumbling around trying to lash a few last-minute objects to her bike. Inside I feared the same. We had not had time to do a test run – this was it.

    In reality there was no way for us to prepare for the journey that lied ahead. A tour of the Ancash State: home to both sweltering desert and the amazon basin perforated by the second highest mountain range on earth and remote glacial passes. This is a limit to what you can carry on a bicycle after all. When we lifted our 70lb bikes off the bus in Samanco the task of crossing the Andes felt overwhelming and far. -[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column css=”.vc_custom_1553221444521{border-bottom-width: 40px !important;}” offset=”vc_col-lg-3 vc_col-md-4 vc_col-xs-12″ el_class=”darkc”][vc_column_text][ls_content_block slug=”expedition-ancash-sidebar” para=”paragraphs”][/vc_column_text][vc_column_text css=”.vc_custom_1554153229084{margin-bottom: 20px !important;}”][tags][/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column css=”.vc_custom_1553040554697{margin-top: 0px !important;border-top-width: 0px !important;padding-top: 0px !important;}” offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-8 vc_col-md-offset-0 vc_col-md-12 vc_col-xs-12″][vc_single_image image=”15595″ img_size=”full” css=”.vc_custom_1553040632391{padding-bottom: 10px !important;}”][jig_vc][justified_image_grid ids=15597,15602,15599 thumbs_spacing=10 row_height=450 height_deviation=100 orderby=menu_order max_rows=1 disable_cropping=no][/jig_vc][/vc_column][vc_column offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-8 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-10 vc_col-xs-12″ el_class=”lightc”][vc_column_text]

    Expedition Ancash

    40 Days Bikepacking in the Peruvian Andes

    [/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”1/2″ offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-4 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-5 vc_col-sm-offset-0 vc_col-xs-12″ el_class=”lightc”][vc_column_text]Our plan was grand: A massive tour of the Ancash State in northern Peru – a region as diverse as the country featuring a wide variety of ecosystems.

    We would start in the western desert – crossing the Cordillera Negra (16k feet) as a warm up for the high passes of the Cordillera Blanca (23k feet) before dropping to Yanama on the western frontier with the Amazon.

    The idea was dreamed up after countless hours going through photos with Liz from my previous trip: Expedicion ANP. “we have to go back” told her. I longed to share the vast and rugged landscapes of Peru – The country had always had a special place in my heart, and left so much to be discovered.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”1/2″ offset=”vc_col-lg-4 vc_col-md-5″ el_class=”lightc”][vc_column_text css=”.vc_custom_1553242122067{margin-right: 10px !important;}”]We resolved to travel on as much trail as possible – taking with us some seriously capable full suspension bikes. The last time I had been here I remember longing to go more off-road and penetrate deeper into the Andes. This was our chance.

    I knew of few people would be up for a trip of such magnitude. Liz had outperformed me many times with her capacity for endurance in our Volcanarchy expedition in Guatemala and our past year racing together. I was confident in our ability to problem solve and “not freak out” when the times got tough and looked forward to us getting lost together (just a bit).[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-8 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-10″][vc_single_image image=”15593″ img_size=”full”][/vc_column][vc_column offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-8 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-10″ el_class=”darkc”][vc_column_text]The Ancash department stretches from the western coast to the eastern amazon basin. Within its bounds are two mega ranges: The Cordillera Negra (black) and the Cordillera Blanca (white) – with some of the highest peaks in the world including Mt Huascarán at 22,000ft. [/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”1/2″ offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-4 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-5 vc_col-sm-offset-0 vc_col-xs-12″ el_class=”lightc”][vc_column_text]

    Gateway to the Cordillera Negra

    Land of Sugarcane and Searing Heat

    We cross the blistering coastal plains following a large river eddy – a ribbon of green with a backdrop of barren landscapes in all directions. The mountains here are rocky, adorned with scrubby cactus’ and boulders. The land is raw stretching upwards to the craggy horizon of the Cordillera Negra and it feels as if we riding through and enormous construction site. Mounds of rock and riffraff as far as you can see – the discarded building blocks of the Andes.

    It’s hot – it is not yet noon and temperatures are already above 100°F. Double semis rattle past with overloaded cargo of sugarcane. I can feel my skin blistering. We down water and keep the pace up to ensure airflow.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”1/2″ offset=”vc_col-lg-4 vc_col-md-5″ el_class=”lightc”][vc_single_image image=”15604″ img_size=”large” onclick=”custom_link” img_link_target=”_blank” link=”https://www.picsporadic.com/items/BIGMTN-180218-118-G85″ css=”.vc_custom_1553048353076{margin-bottom: 5px !important;padding-left: 10px !important;}”][/vc_column][vc_column parallax=”content-moving” parallax_image=”15623″ offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-8 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-10″ css=”.vc_custom_1553280697641{margin-bottom: 40px !important;}”][vc_empty_space height=”70vh”][/vc_column][vc_column width=”5/12″ offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-4 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-5 vc_col-sm-offset-0 vc_col-xs-12″ el_class=”lightc”][vc_column_text css=”.vc_custom_1553292143561{margin-top: 30px !important;}”]

    San Jacinto and the Ruins of Punkurí

    All the water in this part of Peru is used for the irrigation of cash crops. Peru in general is a very dry place. Water courses through concrete irrigation locks like veins that spider out across the plains. All water here is privately owned and controlled feeding industrial operations of sugarcane, and fruit trees.

    We pass through the town of San Jacinto – home of a large sugar processing plant. I ponder as I have many times the incredible waste of the sugar industry absorbing incalculable quantities of water and energy to produce a product that is borderline toxic.

    Eager to take a rest – we stop at a roadside archeological site – sponsored by the sugar company. After looking around for a while we find the guardian – who was a bit spooked to see us.

    Inside was large map illustrating the spread of the Inca civilization with hundreds of ruins throughout the area. Human remains have been found in this area dating over 5,000 years old. Some 2,000 years ago people worshiped around a pyramid at this site with large sculpture of a bloated cartoon-like puma. Strange.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”7/12″ offset=”vc_col-lg-4 vc_col-md-5″ el_class=”lightc”][vc_single_image image=”15608″ img_size=”full” onclick=”custom_link” img_link_target=”_blank” css=”.vc_custom_1553038681386{padding-top: 5px !important;padding-right: 5px !important;padding-bottom: 5px !important;padding-left: 5px !important;}” link=”https://www.picsporadic.com/items/BIGMTN-180219-543-G85″][vc_column_text css_animation=”none”]

    It’s hard to cross such dry landscape without thinking about water. –

    Levels were seriously low at this reservoir.
    [/vc_column_text][jig_vc][/jig_vc][vc_single_image image=”15607″ img_size=”large” onclick=”custom_link” img_link_target=”_blank” link=”https://www.picsporadic.com/items/BIGMTN-180219-257-G85″ css=”.vc_custom_1553048364432{margin-bottom: 5px !important;padding-left: 5px !important;}”][/vc_column][vc_column css=”.vc_custom_1553280596639{margin-top: 0px !important;margin-bottom: 40px !important;border-top-width: 0px !important;padding-top: 0px !important;background-color: #f9f9f9 !important;}” offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-8 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-10 vc_col-xs-12″][vc_single_image image=”15606″ img_size=”full” onclick=”custom_link” img_link_target=”_blank” css=”.vc_custom_1553038105269{padding-top: 5px !important;padding-right: 5px !important;padding-bottom: 5px !important;padding-left: 5px !important;}” link=”https://www.picsporadic.com/items/BIGMTN-180221-220-G85″][vc_column_text css=”.vc_custom_1553047649103{padding-left: 10px !important;}”]

    Taking some shade visiting the ruins of Punkurí

    [/vc_column_text][jig_vc][justified_image_grid ids=15615,15616,15617 margin=5px][/jig_vc][/vc_column][vc_column parallax=”content-moving” parallax_image=”15609″ parallax_speed_bg=”1.2″ offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-8 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-10″][vc_empty_space height=”500px”][/vc_column][vc_column width=”5/12″ offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-4 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-5 vc_col-sm-offset-0 vc_col-xs-12″ el_class=”lightc”][vc_column_text]

    Our First Views of the Dark Mountains

    Past San Jacinto the road turns to dirt and steepens. We begin switchbacking and the load of the bikes becomes more apparent. Emotion, however rises as we climb higher returning back the natural environment after days in transit – no more city!

    We climb to 2,000ft then 4,000ft -the light wanes and the temperature cools. The humid haze from the hot coast clears and we can take in the views – which are getting greener. – Cows graze in pastures and pine trees dot the landscape.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”7/12″ offset=”vc_col-lg-4 vc_col-md-5″ el_class=”lightc”][vc_single_image image=”15631″ img_size=”medium” onclick=”custom_link” img_link_target=”_blank” link=”https://www.picsporadic.com/items/BIGMTN-180222-149-G85″ css=”.vc_custom_1553118064577{padding-right: 5px !important;padding-left: 5px !important;}”][/vc_column][vc_column parallax=”content-moving” parallax_image=”15630″ parallax_speed_bg=”1.2″ offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-8 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-10″ css=”.vc_custom_1553044566471{margin-bottom: 0px !important;border-bottom-width: 0px !important;padding-bottom: 0px !important;}”][vc_empty_space height=”500px”][vc_column_text css=”.vc_custom_1553044822667{margin-bottom: 0px !important;border-bottom-width: 0px !important;padding-right: 10px !important;padding-bottom: 0px !important;padding-left: 10px !important;background-color: rgba(2,2,2,0.44) !important;*background-color: rgb(2,2,2) !important;}”]

    Our day began at sea level and climbed to the high desert. The light in this part of Peru is golden the sand in the atmosphere catching the glow of the Pacific. ? Purchase
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    Jimbe – el. 5200ft

    We reach the small town of Jimbe by dusk – the mountains of the Cordillera Negra catch the last light of day filtered red through atmosphere of the desert. The light lingers and shifts from marigold to crimson to violet and indigo. We search out a place to eat.

    Children whisper, scampering in the shadows behind us. Locals give us second looks as we rock our two-wheeled steeds through the town. We knock on the only restaurant we can find. “La Caravana” and order up a dinner – then a second. In the corner of the room are two old men drinking from a liter of beer  watching the violent noticias on the television from the city. Outside we can hear the children whispering among themselves – urging each other to get a look at the two gringos through the window.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column_inner][/vc_row_inner][/vc_column][vc_column offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-8 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-10 vc_col-xs-12″ css=”.vc_custom_1553280768907{background-color: #f9f9f9 !important;}”][vc_single_image image=”15625″ img_size=”full” onclick=”custom_link” img_link_target=”_blank” css=”.vc_custom_1553043665953{padding-top: 5px !important;padding-right: 5px !important;padding-bottom: 5px !important;padding-left: 5px !important;}” link=”https://www.picsporadic.com/items/BIGMTN-180222-608-G85″][/vc_column][vc_column width=”1/2″ offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-4 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-5 vc_col-sm-offset-0 vc_col-xs-12″ el_class=”lightc”][vc_column_text]

    “Tranquilo”

    I go over to talk to the two men watching television.  The oldest is sitting hunched in his chair – his hand balanced on a cane. He tells me he was former teacher and owner of the restaurant. His son in law keeps the cup full of beer for him as he talks. “I’ve traveled all over” he says. “I grew up here – and crossed all of Peru by motorcycle in the 60’s”. When I tell him our plans to camp in the fields outside of town he tells us that is unnecessary -and invites us to sleep on right on the floor of the restaurant!

    I order up a beer and listen intently as the man continues on his life story. “I was in San Fransisco in the 70’s” he tells me “I lived in the U.S for 5 years, my children are there now.” -He gazes at the flickering TV screen. Murder, violence, calamity traverse airways from Lima, far away on evening news. “But I came back here to my home” he says “Jimbe is a tranquil place.”[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”1/2″ offset=”vc_col-lg-4 vc_col-md-5″ el_class=”lightc”][vc_column_text css=”.vc_custom_1553226419476{margin-top: 40px !important;margin-right: 10px !important;}”]Outside in the darkness the children cup their hands over their faces against dark glass window to get a better look inside. I tell the man about our plan to cross the Cordillera Negra and that we hadn’t quite settled on a route.

    “I went up there years ago” he said. “es un camino silencio” (a silent road) – “there is nothing up there.” He told us it is a full day’s ride to Huaylas on motorbike -which means 2-3 days for us on bicycles.

    I think about the mountains outside – no lights dot their slopes, there slopes black silhouetted in the darkness – cold and quiet. “Camino Silencio”. Would we find water up there? Would there be any re-supply? Or would we need to take everything with us for the next 3 days: crank-stroke by crank-stroke up to 15,000ft?[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column css=”.vc_custom_1553280797660{margin-top: 40px !important;margin-bottom: 35px !important;background-color: #f4f4f4 !important;}” offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-8 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-10 vc_col-xs-12″][vc_single_image image=”15598″ img_size=”full” onclick=”custom_link” img_link_target=”_blank” css=”.vc_custom_1553043551423{padding-top: 5px !important;padding-right: 5px !important;padding-bottom: 5px !important;padding-left: 5px !important;}” link=”https://www.picsporadic.com/items/Guatemala-171220-099-G85-HDR”][vc_column_text css=”.vc_custom_1553118135560{padding-right: 10px !important;padding-left: 10px !important;}”]

    Scoping out a camping spot for the night near the fishing village of Los Chimus on the Pacific coast. |?

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    View Full Gallery

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  • Expedition Ancash – Gear

    Expedition Ancash – Gear

    [vc_row full_width=”stretch_row_content_no_spaces” full_height=”yes” parallax=”content-moving-fade” parallax_image=”16497″ css=”.vc_custom_1554158112405{margin-top: 0px !important;margin-bottom: 0px !important;border-top-width: 0px !important;border-bottom-width: 0px !important;padding-top: 0px !important;padding-bottom: 0px !important;background-color: rgba(2,2,2,0.28) !important;*background-color: rgb(2,2,2) !important;}”][vc_column][vc_custom_heading text=”Gear List” font_container=”tag:h2|font_size:80px|text_align:center|color:%23f9f9f9|line_height:80px” use_theme_fonts=”yes”][vc_custom_heading text=”Expedition Ancash: 40 Days Bikepacking in the Peruvian Andes” font_container=”tag:h5|text_align:center|color:%23f9f9f9″ use_theme_fonts=”yes” css=”.vc_custom_1554157085447{margin-right: 25px !important;margin-left: 25px !important;}”][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row full_width=”stretch_row_content” content_placement=”top” css=”.vc_custom_1554163956631{margin-top: 0px !important;margin-bottom: 0px !important;border-top-width: 5px !important;border-bottom-width: 4px !important;padding-top: 4px !important;padding-bottom: 4px !important;background-color: #232323 !important;border-top-color: #777777 !important;border-top-style: outset !important;border-bottom-color: #777777 !important;border-bottom-style: outset !important;}”][vc_column width=”1/4″ offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-0 vc_col-md-offset-0 vc_col-md-3 vc_col-xs-12″ css=”.vc_custom_1522863410691{margin-bottom: 0px !important;border-bottom-width: 0px !important;padding-bottom: 0px !important;}”][vc_column_text el_class=”smalltext, white”]Published: [date] by PICSPORADIC[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”5/12″ offset=”vc_hidden-md vc_hidden-sm vc_col-xs-2 vc_hidden-xs”][/vc_column][vc_column width=”1/12″ offset=”vc_col-xs-3″ css=”.vc_custom_1522975589935{margin-bottom: 0px !important;border-bottom-width: 0px !important;padding-bottom: 0px !important;}”][vc_facebook type=”button_count” css=”.vc_custom_1490816047681{margin-top: 4px !important;}”][/vc_column][vc_column width=”1/12″ offset=”vc_col-xs-3″ css=”.vc_custom_1522975656647{margin-bottom: 0px !important;border-bottom-width: 0px !important;padding-bottom: 0px !important;padding-left: 20px !important;}”][vc_googleplus annotation=”none” css=”.vc_custom_1490816144508{margin-top: 2px !important;}”][/vc_column][vc_column width=”1/6″ offset=”vc_col-xs-6″ css=”.vc_custom_1522975582023{margin-top: 0px !important;margin-bottom: 0px !important;border-top-width: 0px !important;border-bottom-width: 0px !important;padding-top: 4px !important;padding-bottom: 0px !important;}”][vc_column_text el_class=”smalltext, white”][views] [comments][/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row full_width=”stretch_row_content_no_spaces” equal_height=”yes” content_placement=”top” css=”.vc_custom_1626284780328{border-bottom-width: 40px !important;background-color: #383838 !important;}”][vc_column offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-5 vc_col-md-offset-0 vc_col-md-8 vc_col-sm-offset-0 vc_col-xs-12″ el_class=”lightc”][vc_column_text]

    40 Days

    Preparing for an extended bikepacking trip

    One of the biggest considerations when planning any bikepacking trip is calculating just how much gear you should bring.  Lightweight camping gear can help to keep the weight down, but there is always a compromise between weight and comfort.

    Enjoyment on the bike can directly depend on carrying the least amount of weight. A light setup will give you a ride great offroad and uphill but you will be making sacrifices in other areas like comfort at camp.

    In Peru we would be riding trails but also crossing vast distances on road. So whatever bicycle we picked would be a compromise between trail plush and stiff road machine. In the Ancash department we would be crossing several ecoregions including desert and snow which made selecting the right clothes for the trip an interesting task.

    Caches

    Most of the equipment we kept with us through the entire 40 days. However there were some loops off of our main route where we would cache our gear. We also slimmed down our weight as we went including a few extra parts we ended up not needing. We ended up leaving a tire near Laguna Klanganuco. On one of our last days of the expedition we decided to bike back up there and get it back![/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column css=”.vc_custom_1626285941539{border-bottom-width: 40px !important;}” offset=”vc_col-lg-3 vc_col-md-4 vc_col-xs-12″ el_class=”darkc”][vc_column_text][ls_content_block slug=”expedition-ancash-sidebar” para=”paragraphs”][/vc_column_text][vc_column_text][tags][/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row full_width=”stretch_row_content_no_spaces” content_placement=”top” parallax=”content-moving-fade” parallax_image=”16366″ css=”.vc_custom_1554163710320{margin-top: 0px !important;margin-right: 0px !important;margin-bottom: 0px !important;margin-left: 0px !important;border-top-width: 0px !important;border-right-width: 0px !important;border-left-width: 0px !important;padding-top: 40px !important;background-color: rgba(0,0,0,0.25) !important;*background-color: rgb(0,0,0) !important;}”][vc_column width=”1/2″ offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-8 vc_col-lg-3 vc_col-md-offset-6 vc_col-md-6 vc_col-sm-offset-6″][vc_column_text css=”.vc_custom_1554157489309{padding-top: 20px !important;padding-right: 20px !important;padding-bottom: 20px !important;padding-left: 20px !important;background-color: rgba(214,214,214,0.7) !important;*background-color: rgb(214,214,214) !important;border-radius: 5px !important;}”]

    Liz’s Bike

    • 2018 Scott Spark RC Ultimate 29″
    • Industry Nine Enduro 305 Wheelset
    • 2×10 Shimano Drivetrain
    • Sunrace 11-42 Cassette
    • One-Up Radr Cage
    • Maxxis Ardent 2.4″ Tires

    [/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column][vc_empty_space height=”50vh”][vc_row_inner equal_height=”yes” content_placement=”middle” gap=”10″ css=”.vc_custom_1626286947980{margin-bottom: 50px !important;background-color: rgba(255,255,255,0.01) !important;*background-color: rgb(255,255,255) !important;}”][vc_column_inner width=”1/4″ offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-1 vc_col-lg-2 vc_col-md-4 vc_col-xs-6″][vc_single_image image=”17046″ img_size=”medium” alignment=”center” css=”.vc_custom_1554162770529{margin-top: 0px !important;border-top-width: 0px !important;}”][/vc_column_inner][vc_column_inner width=”1/4″ offset=”vc_col-lg-2 vc_col-md-4 vc_col-xs-6″][vc_single_image image=”17045″ img_size=”medium” alignment=”center”][/vc_column_inner][vc_column_inner width=”1/4″ offset=”vc_col-lg-2 vc_col-md-4 vc_col-xs-6″][vc_single_image image=”1471″ img_size=”medium” alignment=”center” css=”.vc_custom_1476811701258{border-bottom-width: 0px !important;padding-bottom: 0px !important;}”][/vc_column_inner][vc_column_inner width=”1/4″ offset=”vc_col-lg-2 vc_col-md-6 vc_col-xs-6″][vc_single_image image=”1472″ img_size=”medium” alignment=”center”][/vc_column_inner][vc_column_inner width=”1/4″ offset=”vc_col-lg-2 vc_col-md-6 vc_col-xs-6″][vc_single_image image=”1473″ img_size=”medium” alignment=”center”][/vc_column_inner][/vc_row_inner][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row full_width=”stretch_row_content_no_spaces” gap=”10″ content_placement=”top” css=”.vc_custom_1626288970995{margin-top: 0px !important;margin-bottom: 0px !important;border-top-width: 0px !important;border-bottom-width: 0px !important;padding-top: 30px !important;padding-bottom: 30px !important;}”][vc_column][vc_column_text css=”.vc_custom_1626289324927{padding-bottom: 40px !important;}”]

    Full Gear List

    [/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”1/6″ offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-1 vc_col-lg-2 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-2 vc_col-sm-offset-1 vc_col-xs-6″][vc_column_text el_class=”smalltext”]

    Misc.

    Osprey Syncro 15 Backpacks
    Steripen Freedom – USB water filter
    Sawyer Mini Water Filter
    Sinewave Cycles Revolution USB Inverter
    Anker Power bank
    USB Charger for Gopro and Camera Batteries[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”1/6″ offset=”vc_col-xs-6″][vc_column_text el_class=”smalltext”]

    Camping

    Big Agnus Jack Rabbit 2 Tent
    Primus Gravity II MF Stove
    GSI Cookware
    Marmot Sleeping Bags
    Thermarest Sleeping pads[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”1/6″][vc_column_text el_class=”smalltext”]

    Cameras

    1x Panasonic G7 4k Camera
    Panasonic Leica DG Summilux 15mm f/1.7 ASPH. Lens
    Cannon 50mm FD Lens
    LG G4 Smartphone
    2x Gopro Hero4 Black
    Various Gopro Mounts
    Tripod, Gorillapod[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”1/6″ offset=”vc_col-xs-6″][vc_column_text el_class=”smalltext”]

    Luggage:

    Custom Defiant Pack frame bags:
    Malamut Seatbag Harness
    Geissler II Feedbag
    McClure Handlebar Harness and Front Bag Kit
    Sea to Summit Dry Bags[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”1/6″ offset=”vc_col-xs-12″][vc_column_text el_class=”smalltext”]

    Clothing:

    GORE Bike Wear
    Julbo Stunt Glasses
    Julbo Aero Photochrromatic Glasses
    Julbo TREK Photochromatic Glasses
    La Sportiva Down Jacket
    La Sportiva Boulder Approach Shoes[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row full_height=”yes” video_bg=”yes” video_bg_url=”https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2-9O37ETQWQ” css=”.vc_custom_1554162434192{margin-top: 0px !important;margin-bottom: 0px !important;border-top-width: 0px !important;border-bottom-width: 0px !important;padding-top: 0px !important;padding-bottom: 0px !important;background-color: #232323 !important;}”][vc_column][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row full_width=”stretch_row_content_no_spaces” css=”.vc_custom_1626288989771{margin-bottom: 0px !important;border-bottom-width: 0px !important;padding-top: 30px !important;padding-bottom: 30px !important;}”][vc_column width=”5/6″ offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-4 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-10 vc_col-sm-offset-1 vc_col-xs-12″ css=”.vc_custom_1554161992776{background-color: #ffffff !important;border-radius: 5px !important;}”][/vc_column][vc_column width=”1/2″ offset=”vc_col-lg-4 vc_col-md-5 vc_col-xs-12″][vc_column_text css=”.vc_custom_1554162028581{margin-bottom: 10px !important;}”]

    A Frantic Start

    Last Minute Part and Bike Swaps

    [/vc_column_text][vc_column_text]Pedal Pushers Cyclery in Golden Colorado was invaluable with getting us setup with our bikes and extremely accommodating with all our frantic last minute component swaps![/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row full_width=”stretch_row_content_no_spaces” content_placement=”top” parallax=”content-moving-fade” parallax_image=”16365″ css=”.vc_custom_1554163066868{margin-top: 0px !important;margin-right: 0px !important;margin-bottom: 0px !important;margin-left: 0px !important;border-top-width: 0px !important;border-right-width: 0px !important;border-left-width: 0px !important;padding-top: 40px !important;background-color: rgba(0,0,0,0.25) !important;*background-color: rgb(0,0,0) !important;}”][vc_column width=”1/2″ offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-3 vc_col-md-offset-0 vc_col-md-6 vc_col-sm-offset-1 vc_col-xs-12″][vc_column_text css=”.vc_custom_1554163189780{padding-top: 20px !important;padding-right: 20px !important;padding-bottom: 20px !important;padding-left: 20px !important;background-color: rgba(214,214,214,0.7) !important;*background-color: rgb(214,214,214) !important;border-radius: 5px !important;}”]

    Brendan’s Bike

    • BMC Fourstroke 02 FS Bike 29″
    • Defiant Pack “Wave” – Downtube storage
    • WTB i25 Rims
    • Shutter Precision PD-8X Dynohub
    • Sinewave Cycles Revolution USB Inverter
    • 2×10 Shimano Drivetrain
    • Sunrace 11-42 Cassette
    • One-Up Radr Cage
    • Maxxis Ardent 2.4″ Tires

    [/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column][vc_row_inner equal_height=”yes” gap=”10″ css=”.vc_custom_1554160317486{margin-top: 100px !important;margin-bottom: 50px !important;background-color: rgba(255,255,255,0.01) !important;*background-color: rgb(255,255,255) !important;}”][vc_column_inner width=”1/3″ offset=”vc_col-lg-1/5 vc_col-md-3″][vc_single_image image=”16717″ img_size=”medium” alignment=”center” onclick=”custom_link” img_link_target=”_blank” css=”.vc_custom_1554159816256{margin-top: 0px !important;border-top-width: 0px !important;}” link=”http://bmc-switzerland.com/”][/vc_column_inner][vc_column_inner width=”1/3″ offset=”vc_col-lg-1/5 vc_col-md-3″][vc_single_image image=”17039″ img_size=”medium” alignment=”center” onclick=”custom_link” link=”http://www.defiantpack.com”][/vc_column_inner][vc_column_inner width=”1/3″ offset=”vc_col-lg-1/5 vc_col-md-3″][vc_single_image image=”16713″ img_size=”medium” alignment=”center” css=”.vc_custom_1554160013569{border-bottom-width: 0px !important;padding-bottom: 0px !important;}”][/vc_column_inner][vc_column_inner width=”1/3″ offset=”vc_col-lg-1/5 vc_col-md-3 vc_hidden-sm”][vc_single_image image=”16714″ img_size=”medium” alignment=”center”][/vc_column_inner][vc_column_inner width=”1/5″][vc_single_image image=”16746″ img_size=”large”][/vc_column_inner][/vc_row_inner][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row full_width=”stretch_row_content_no_spaces” css=”.vc_custom_1626289061056{margin-bottom: 0px !important;border-bottom-width: 0px !important;padding-top: 30px !important;padding-bottom: 30px !important;}”][vc_column offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-8 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-10 vc_col-xs-12″][vc_column_text css=”.vc_custom_1554163747506{margin-bottom: 10px !important;}”]

    Putting it All in One Big Box.

    [/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”5/6″ offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-4 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-5 vc_col-sm-offset-1 vc_col-xs-12″ css=”.vc_custom_1626288824059{background-color: #ffffff !important;border-radius: 5px !important;}”][vc_column_text el_class=”content”]The days leading up to our departure to Peru were some of the craziest. We were waiting on Liz’s new bike to come from Scott – and wThe days leading up to our departure to Peru were some of the craziest. We were waiting on Liz’s new bike to come from Scott – and were unsure of what gear we would bring. I was packing for an unknown amount of time abroad (it would turn out to be two years) – and we were both stressed over what equipment to bring.

    Defiant Pack had prepared bags for Liz’s new bike sight unseen using promotional photos from the internet – which was really quite a feat. At one point we even considered bringing my old Weber Monoporter Bike Trailer – and had a local machine shop modify the hitch for Liz’s enduro bike.ere unsure of what gear we would bring. I was packing for an unknown amount of time abroad (it would turn out to be two years) – and we were both stressed over what equipment to bring.

    Defiant Pack had prepared bags for Liz’s new bike sight unseen using promotional photos from the internet – which was really quite a feat. At one point we even considered bringing my old Weber Monoporter Bike Trailer – and had a local machine shop modify the hitch for Liz’s enduro bike.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”1/2″ offset=”vc_col-lg-4 vc_col-md-5 vc_col-xs-12″][vc_column_text el_class=”content”]Liz’s bike finally did come the night before our departure and we frantically worked to re-outfit it from race machine to bikepacking rig. Which meant phoning various shops in the front range to try and find small pieces for this rare bike.

    The Scott 900 RC Ultimate was a full carbon race-ready rig and came with a brand new Sram Eagle 50t 1×12 drivetrain. We knew that parts for the Eagle setup would be hard to find in Peru so we opted to exchange the drivetrain for a more practical 1×10 Shimano system with an extended range Sunrace 11-42t cassette – which was also the same system my bike was running – so we could use the same spare parts.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row full_height=”yes” video_bg=”yes” video_bg_url=”https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BazxC_pq09A” css=”.vc_custom_1554163032437{margin-top: 0px !important;margin-bottom: 0px !important;border-top-width: 0px !important;border-bottom-width: 0px !important;padding-top: 0px !important;padding-bottom: 0px !important;background-color: #232323 !important;}”][vc_column][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row css=”.vc_custom_1472499353201{background-color: rgba(35,35,35,0.01) !important;*background-color: rgb(35,35,35) !important;}”][vc_column][vc_separator][vc_custom_heading text=”Read on…” font_container=”tag:h2|font_size:70px|text_align:center|color:%23ffffff|line_height:75px” google_fonts=”font_family:Pacifico%3Aregular|font_style:400%20regular%3A400%3Anormal”][/vc_column][/vc_row]

  • Bikepacking in Totonicapán – a mini adventure

    Bikepacking in Totonicapán – a mini adventure

    [vc_row full_width=”stretch_row_content_no_spaces” content_placement=”top” css=”.vc_custom_1522863082502{margin-top: 0px !important;margin-right: 0px !important;margin-bottom: 0px !important;margin-left: 0px !important;border-top-width: 0px !important;border-right-width: 0px !important;border-bottom-width: 0px !important;border-left-width: 0px !important;padding-top: 0px !important;padding-right: 0px !important;padding-bottom: 0px !important;padding-left: 0px !important;background-color: rgba(2,2,2,0.01) !important;*background-color: rgb(2,2,2) !important;}”][vc_column][rev_slider_vc alias=”totonicapan”][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row full_width=”stretch_row_content” content_placement=”top” css=”.vc_custom_1490815124103{margin-bottom: 0px !important;border-top-width: 5px !important;border-bottom-width: 4px !important;padding-top: 4px !important;padding-bottom: 4px !important;background-color: #ffffff !important;border-top-color: #777777 !important;border-top-style: outset !important;border-bottom-color: #777777 !important;border-bottom-style: outset !important;}”][vc_column width=”1/4″ offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-0 vc_col-md-offset-0 vc_col-md-3 vc_col-xs-12″ css=”.vc_custom_1522863410691{margin-bottom: 0px !important;border-bottom-width: 0px !important;padding-bottom: 0px !important;}”][vc_column_text el_class=”smalltext”]Published: [date] by PICSPORADIC [/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”5/12″ offset=”vc_hidden-md vc_hidden-sm vc_col-xs-2 vc_hidden-xs”][vc_column_text el_class=”smalltext”]All of the photos on this page can be purchased for download or print ? Visit store[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”1/12″ offset=”vc_col-xs-3″ css=”.vc_custom_1522975589935{margin-bottom: 0px !important;border-bottom-width: 0px !important;padding-bottom: 0px !important;}”][vc_facebook type=”button_count” css=”.vc_custom_1490816047681{margin-top: 4px !important;}”][/vc_column][vc_column width=”1/12″ offset=”vc_col-xs-3″ css=”.vc_custom_1522975656647{margin-bottom: 0px !important;border-bottom-width: 0px !important;padding-bottom: 0px !important;padding-left: 20px !important;}”][vc_googleplus annotation=”none” css=”.vc_custom_1490816144508{margin-top: 2px !important;}”][/vc_column][vc_column width=”1/6″ offset=”vc_col-xs-6″ css=”.vc_custom_1522975582023{margin-top: 0px !important;margin-bottom: 0px !important;border-top-width: 0px !important;border-bottom-width: 0px !important;padding-top: 4px !important;padding-bottom: 0px !important;}”][vc_column_text el_class=”smalltext”][views]  [comments][/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row full_width=”stretch_row_content_no_spaces” equal_height=”yes” content_placement=”bottom” css=”.vc_custom_1522815957968{margin-top: 0px !important;margin-bottom: 0px !important;border-top-width: 0px !important;border-bottom-width: 0px !important;background-color: #383838 !important;}”][vc_column offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-5 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-7 vc_col-sm-offset-0 vc_col-xs-12″ css=”.vc_custom_1493253569498{padding-top: 20px !important;padding-right: 20px !important;padding-bottom: 20px !important;padding-left: 20px !important;background-color: #232323 !important;}”][vc_custom_heading text=”Totonicapán, Guatemala” font_container=”tag:h1|font_size:30px|text_align:left|color:%23ffffff|line_height:30px” google_fonts=”font_family:Alfa%20Slab%20One%3Aregular|font_style:400%20regular%3A400%3Anormal” el_class=”white”][vc_custom_heading text=”A visit to the communal forest of the 48 Cantones” font_container=”tag:h2|font_size:20|text_align:left|color:%23e8e8e8|line_height:20px” google_fonts=”font_family:Advent%20Pro%3A100%2C200%2C300%2Cregular%2C500%2C600%2C700|font_style:500%20bold%20regular%3A500%3Anormal” el_class=”white”][vc_column_text css_animation=”none” el_class=”light” css=”.vc_custom_1553135583379{padding-top: 20px !important;}”]Keeping tradition with my recent weekend epics in and around Guatemala I made a second visit to an area few locals even know about: Totonicápan: a high mountain forest located at 3200m (11,000ft).

    The area is home to hundreds of springs that supply water to the communities below. Smartly, the 48 cantones (small towns) in the region have banded together to protect their water sources – the result is Parcialidad Vásquez, Totonicapán: the largest protected coniferous forest in all of Central America.[/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=”15061″ img_size=”full” style=”vc_box_border” onclick=”link_image” css_animation=”top-to-bottom” css=”.vc_custom_1523506468766{margin-top: 20px !important;margin-bottom: 20px !important;}”][vc_column_text el_class=”light”]Guatemala has tropical climate with temperatures pretty much averages the same year round – the seasons, however vary drastically. For half the year (sept-april) the highlands receive no rain. During this time the deciduous trees drop their leaves, and the aquifers dry out By the time march rolls around the land is so dry that the earth is covered with a loose dust – more like fine powder.[/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=”15098″ img_size=”large” style=”vc_box_border” onclick=”custom_link” img_link_target=”_blank” css_animation=”top-to-bottom” css=”.vc_custom_1523507945934{margin-top: 20px !important;margin-bottom: 20px !important;}” link=”https://www.picsporadic.com/items/bigmtn-180218-011-g85/”][vc_custom_heading text=”Climate Crossroads” font_container=”tag:h2|font_size:20|text_align:left|color:%23e8e8e8|line_height:20px” google_fonts=”font_family:Advent%20Pro%3A100%2C200%2C300%2Cregular%2C500%2C600%2C700|font_style:500%20bold%20regular%3A500%3Anormal” el_class=”white”][vc_column_text el_class=”light”]During the dry season nearly all of the water in Guatemala comes through cloud conductivity. Situated between two oceans – the 2000-4000m the highlands have steady air currents and cloud cover – water condenses in the forests and feeds large underground aquifers.

    In 2018 Guatemala is at crossroad of deforestation and desertification. Every year the forests are pushed back farther – fueled by steep population growth. The indigenous population (70+ % of the country) pushes deeper into the forests to clear land and establish homesteads. Environmental protection effort within the country is just beginning to gain steam in terms of establishing protected lands and national parks bu there is little enforcement to keep people from cutting trees in protected areas. -Which is why a community protected area like Parcilidad Vásquez can be so important.[/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=”15071″ img_size=”full” style=”vc_box_border” onclick=”custom_link” img_link_target=”_blank” css_animation=”none” css=”.vc_custom_1523506645542{margin-top: 20px !important;}” link=”https://www.picsporadic.com/items/guatemala-aerial-180325-001-dji/”][/vc_column][vc_column css=”.vc_custom_1522879880914{border-bottom-width: 40px !important;background-color: #232323 !important;}” offset=”vc_col-lg-3 vc_col-md-3 vc_col-xs-12″][vc_row_inner equal_height=”yes” css=”.vc_custom_1522872929891{margin-top: 5px !important;margin-right: 20px !important;margin-bottom: 5px !important;margin-left: 5px !important;border-top-width: 2px !important;border-right-width: 2px !important;border-bottom-width: 2px !important;border-left-width: 2px !important;background-color: rgba(0,0,0,0.01) !important;*background-color: rgb(0,0,0) !important;border-left-color: #606060 !important;border-left-style: none !important;border-right-color: #606060 !important;border-right-style: none !important;border-top-color: #606060 !important;border-top-style: none !important;border-bottom-color: #606060 !important;border-bottom-style: none !important;border-radius: 5px !important;}”][vc_column_inner width=”5/12″ offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-0 vc_col-lg-8 vc_col-md-offset-0 vc_col-md-8 vc_col-sm-offset-2 vc_col-xs-8″ css=”.vc_custom_1522960856869{margin-top: 5px !important;border-left-width: 0px !important;}”][vc_custom_heading text=”Brendan James” font_container=”tag:h2|font_size:20|text_align:left|color:%23c9c9c9|line_height:20px” google_fonts=”font_family:Advent%20Pro%3A100%2C200%2C300%2Cregular%2C500%2C600%2C700|font_style:500%20bold%20regular%3A500%3Anormal” el_class=”white”][vc_column_text]Adventure photographer, athlete and bike guide based in Antigua, Guatemala. Full bio[/vc_column_text][/vc_column_inner][vc_column_inner width=”1/6″ offset=”vc_col-lg-4 vc_col-md-4 vc_col-xs-4″ css=”.vc_custom_1522873767410{margin-top: 5px !important;margin-bottom: 5px !important;}”][vc_single_image image=”4281″ img_size=”full” style=”vc_box_circle_2″ onclick=”custom_link” img_link_target=”_blank” link=”https://www.picsporadic.com/bio”][/vc_column_inner][/vc_row_inner][vc_custom_heading text=”Thank you to:” font_container=”tag:h1|font_size:18|text_align:center|color:%23dddddd|line_height:18px” google_fonts=”font_family:Exo%3A100%2C100italic%2C200%2C200italic%2C300%2C300italic%2Cregular%2Citalic%2C500%2C500italic%2C600%2C600italic%2C700%2C700italic%2C800%2C800italic%2C900%2C900italic|font_style:500%20bold%20regular%3A500%3Anormal” el_class=”white” css=”.vc_custom_1522818020611{margin-top: 35px !important;margin-right: 10px !important;}”][vc_row_inner equal_height=”yes” css=”.vc_custom_1522873952061{margin-right: 5px !important;margin-bottom: 10px !important;margin-left: 10px !important;border-top-width: 2px !important;border-right-width: 2px !important;border-bottom-width: 2px !important;border-left-width: 2px !important;padding-right: 5px !important;padding-left: 5px !important;background-color: rgba(0,0,0,0.01) !important;*background-color: rgb(0,0,0) !important;border-left-color: #606060 !important;border-left-style: solid !important;border-right-color: #606060 !important;border-right-style: solid !important;border-top-color: #606060 !important;border-top-style: solid !important;border-bottom-color: #606060 !important;border-bottom-style: solid !important;border-radius: 5px !important;}”][vc_column_inner width=”1/12″ offset=”vc_col-lg-3 vc_col-md-4 vc_col-xs-3″ css=”.vc_custom_1522816214639{margin-top: 20px !important;margin-left: 0px !important;border-left-width: 0px !important;padding-left: 0px !important;}”][vc_single_image image=”15108″ img_size=”full” style=”vc_box_circle_2″ onclick=”custom_link” img_link_target=”_blank” css=”.vc_custom_1523511651654{margin-top: 5px !important;margin-right: 5px !important;margin-bottom: 5px !important;margin-left: 5px !important;}” link=”http://www.ridebig.com”][/vc_column_inner][vc_column_inner width=”5/12″ css=”.vc_custom_1522816887069{margin-top: 20px !important;padding-left: 7px !important;}” offset=”vc_col-lg-9 vc_col-xs-9″][vc_custom_heading text=”Defiant Pack” font_container=”tag:h2|font_size:18|text_align:left|color:%23c9c9c9|line_height:18px” google_fonts=”font_family:Advent%20Pro%3A100%2C200%2C300%2Cregular%2C500%2C600%2C700|font_style:500%20bold%20regular%3A500%3Anormal” el_class=”white”][vc_column_text]Custom Frame Bags, Bikepacking, Cargo, Ski Carry Made in Colorado.
    www.defiantpack.com[/vc_column_text][/vc_column_inner][/vc_row_inner][vc_custom_heading text=”Gallery” font_container=”tag:h1|font_size:30px|text_align:right|color:%23ffffff|line_height:40px” google_fonts=”font_family:Exo%3A100%2C100italic%2C200%2C200italic%2C300%2C300italic%2Cregular%2Citalic%2C500%2C500italic%2C600%2C600italic%2C700%2C700italic%2C800%2C800italic%2C900%2C900italic|font_style:500%20bold%20regular%3A500%3Anormal” el_class=”white” css=”.vc_custom_1522872747287{margin-top: 40px !important;margin-right: 20px !important;margin-left: 20px !important;}”][jig_vc][justified_image_grid row_height=150 height_deviation=100 caption=off margin=5px orderby=rand limit=30 max_rows=7 last_row=hide rml_id=176][/jig_vc][vc_column_text]View full gallery[/vc_column_text][vc_custom_heading text=”Recent Posts” font_container=”tag:h1|font_size:20px|text_align:right|color:%23878787|line_height:20px” google_fonts=”font_family:Exo%3A100%2C100italic%2C200%2C200italic%2C300%2C300italic%2Cregular%2Citalic%2C500%2C500italic%2C600%2C600italic%2C700%2C700italic%2C800%2C800italic%2C900%2C900italic|font_style:600%20bold%20regular%3A600%3Anormal” el_class=”white” css=”.vc_custom_1522872760595{margin-top: 35px !important;margin-right: 20px !important;margin-left: 20px !important;}”][jig_vc][justified_image_grid row_height=100 caption=fade caption_opacity=1 caption_bg_color=109,76,52,0.8 caption_text_color=white caption_title_size=12px v_center_captions=yes specialfx=everything specialfx_type=desaturate orderby=menu_order max_rows=2 recent_posts=yes recents_description=nicetime][/jig_vc][vc_empty_space height=”20px”][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row full_width=”stretch_row_content_no_spaces” content_placement=”top” css=”.vc_custom_1493229127906{margin-top: 0px !important;margin-bottom: 0px !important;border-top-width: 0px !important;border-bottom-width: 0px !important;background-color: #383838 !important;}”][vc_column css=”.vc_custom_1522873382707{margin-top: 60px !important;border-top-width: 0px !important;padding-top: 0px !important;background-color: #ffffff !important;}” offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-8 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-10 vc_col-xs-12″][vc_single_image image=”15046″ img_size=”full” onclick=”custom_link” img_link_target=”_blank” css_animation=”top-to-bottom” css=”.vc_custom_1523506066655{padding-top: 5px !important;padding-right: 5px !important;padding-left: 5px !important;}” link=”https://www.picsporadic.com/items/BIGMTN-180218-367-G85″][vc_column_text css=”.vc_custom_1523511200935{padding-left: 10px !important;}”]Sun strikes the mountains looking west towards Quetzaltenango and Volcán Santa Maria. | ?[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row full_width=”stretch_row_content_no_spaces” equal_height=”yes” content_placement=”top” css=”.vc_custom_1522809699289{margin-top: 0px !important;margin-bottom: 0px !important;border-top-width: 0px !important;border-bottom-width: 0px !important;background-color: #383838 !important;}”][vc_column width=”1/2″ offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-4 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-5 vc_col-sm-offset-0 vc_col-xs-12″ css=”.vc_custom_1493409656577{padding-top: 20px !important;padding-right: 20px !important;padding-bottom: 20px !important;padding-left: 20px !important;background-color: #f4f4f4 !important;}”][vc_custom_heading text=”Back to Bike Bum” font_container=”tag:h1|font_size:30px|text_align:left|color:%233f3f3f|line_height:40px” google_fonts=”font_family:Alfa%20Slab%20One%3Aregular|font_style:400%20regular%3A400%3Anormal” el_class=”white”][vc_custom_heading text=”Escape to the hills” font_container=”tag:h2|font_size:20|text_align:left|color:%233f3f3f|line_height:20px” google_fonts=”font_family:Advent%20Pro%3A100%2C200%2C300%2Cregular%2C500%2C600%2C700|font_style:500%20bold%20regular%3A500%3Anormal” el_class=”white”][vc_column_text]I broke out of work early leaving Antigua around 4 pm. My first objective: Chimaltenangoabout 300m vertical above the town. By the time I reached the madness at the pan-american highway it was already starting to get dark. With the help of a few ayudantes I threw my bike up ontop of a chicken bus and sped off into the evening fog.

    I arrived at Los Encuentros a little after 9 in temperatures around freezing. I stocked up of food and beer and began the 20km ride up to cumbre Maria Tecún – lit by headlight.

    About halfway up the climb to 3200m a pickup truck came up behind me, matching my speed. It got annoying to the point that I stopped and asked them was going on. The truck pulled up along side me loaded with men. “where are you going” they asked me – I told them my plan was to bike through the night to Totonicápan. “this land is private” they told me “yes, but I am on a public road” I said a bit nervously.

    After a bit of back and forth the men in the truck sped off – on a road I knew had no exit. I headed my inner voice and pulled off into the woods on the nearest trail – extinguishing my light and taking a break for a piss. – Sure enough the pickup doubled back. Creeping slowly along the road. I ducked behind a boulder and waited for them to pass.  I resolved to continue with as little light as possible – advancing quickly to the trailhead.

     [/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”1/2″ css=”.vc_custom_1522808875009{padding-top: 5px !important;padding-right: 5px !important;background-color: #f4f4f4 !important;}” offset=”vc_col-lg-4 vc_col-md-5″][vc_single_image image=”15053″ img_size=”large” onclick=”custom_link” img_link_target=”_blank” link=”https://www.picsporadic.com/items/BIGMTN-180219-257-G85″ css=”.vc_custom_1523508882001{padding-left: 10px !important;}”][vc_column_text el_class=”white” css=”.vc_custom_1533617785273{padding-left: 10px !important;}”]Bikebum camp – at around 11,000ft we got frost at night| ? [/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-8 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-10″ css=”.vc_custom_1522808491038{background-color: #f4f4f4 !important;}”][vc_single_image image=”15052″ img_size=”full” onclick=”custom_link” img_link_target=”_blank” css=”.vc_custom_1523507997660{padding-top: 5px !important;padding-right: 5px !important;padding-bottom: 5px !important;padding-left: 5px !important;}” link=”https://www.picsporadic.com/items/BIGMTN-180219-585-G85″][vc_column_text css=”.vc_custom_1533617868952{padding-left: 10px !important;}”]First rays of light filtering through the trees. Totonicapán, Guatemala (3300m) |? [/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”1/2″ css=”.vc_custom_1522808573384{background-color: #f4f4f4 !important;}” offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-4 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-5″][vc_single_image image=”15100″ img_size=”full” onclick=”custom_link” img_link_target=”_blank” css=”.vc_custom_1523508833941{padding-top: 5px !important;padding-right: 5px !important;padding-bottom: 5px !important;padding-left: 5px !important;}” link=”https://www.picsporadic.com/items/BIGMTN-180218-550-G85″][vc_column_text css=”.vc_custom_1533617915415{padding-left: 5px !important;}”]The trusty BMC Fourstroke – serving just as well for bikepacking as a race rig.
    [/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”1/2″ css=”.vc_custom_1522808645778{background-color: #f4f4f4 !important;}” offset=”vc_col-lg-4 vc_col-md-5″][vc_single_image image=”15103″ img_size=”full” onclick=”custom_link” img_link_target=”_blank” css=”.vc_custom_1523510313844{padding-top: 5px !important;padding-right: 5px !important;padding-bottom: 5px !important;padding-left: 5px !important;}” link=”https://www.picsporadic.com/items/BIGMTN-180218-550-G85″][vc_column_text]Deeply worn herding paths in the alpine grass. [/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column parallax=”content-moving-fade” parallax_image=”15047″ parallax_speed_bg=”1.2″ css_animation=”fadeIn” offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-8 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-10″][vc_empty_space height=”450px”][vc_column_text css=”.vc_custom_1533617979953{padding-left: 10px !important;background-color: rgba(2,2,2,0.44) !important;*background-color: rgb(2,2,2) !important;}”]Sunrise over Quiché with it’s many canyons and ridges holding the morning fog.  |? Purchase
    [/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row full_width=”stretch_row_content_no_spaces” equal_height=”yes” content_placement=”top” css=”.vc_custom_1493316115647{margin-top: 0px !important;margin-bottom: 0px !important;border-top-width: 0px !important;border-bottom-width: 0px !important;background-color: #383838 !important;}”][vc_column width=”1/2″ offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-4 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-5 vc_col-sm-offset-0 vc_col-xs-12″ css=”.vc_custom_1493409656577{padding-top: 20px !important;padding-right: 20px !important;padding-bottom: 20px !important;padding-left: 20px !important;background-color: #f4f4f4 !important;}”][vc_custom_heading text=”Slightly Paranoid” font_container=”tag:h2|font_size:20|text_align:left|color:%233f3f3f|line_height:20px” google_fonts=”font_family:Advent%20Pro%3A100%2C200%2C300%2Cregular%2C500%2C600%2C700|font_style:500%20bold%20regular%3A500%3Anormal” el_class=”white”][vc_column_text]I reached the summit of Maria Tecún around midnight. After my encounter earlier that evening I scoured the forest and retreated far from the trail to pitch my tent.

    There are very few places in the Guatemalan highlands where you can wild camp. Campesios rise early and guardianes patrol enormous tracts of private land. That being said it hasn’t stopped me from trying to camp where I can. Camping in Guatemala has made me extremely paranoid about finding a hidden spot. About eight times out of ten I am awoken by someone, usually armed.[/vc_column_text][vc_custom_heading text=”Sweet Reprive” font_container=”tag:h2|font_size:20|text_align:left|color:%233f3f3f|line_height:20px” google_fonts=”font_family:Advent%20Pro%3A100%2C200%2C300%2Cregular%2C500%2C600%2C700|font_style:500%20bold%20regular%3A500%3Anormal” el_class=”white”][vc_column_text]I have never adapted well to the urban establishments in Latin America. Which is why a quiet night in the wilderness is like medication to me.  Towns in Guatemala grid themselves out with concrete towers in a patchwork with livestock and farmland. Latin American life is noisy – and life in Antigua more so with the churches in a constant competition to out firework each other. Each weekend – bombs and fireworks go well past midnight – and the first bombs of the day set off around 5am like the muslim adhan. Dogs and roosters fill in the spaces in-between.

    It’s really a shame because Guatemala has so many areas of natural beauty – and solice. But I have yet to find a way to live as a foreigner outside the urban center.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”1/2″ css=”.vc_custom_1522902699485{padding-top: 5px !important;padding-left: 10px !important;background-color: #f4f4f4 !important;}” offset=”vc_col-lg-4 vc_col-md-5″][vc_single_image image=”15099″ img_size=”full” onclick=”custom_link” img_link_target=”_blank” css=”.vc_custom_1523508953496{padding-top: 5px !important;padding-right: 5px !important;padding-bottom: 5px !important;padding-left: 5px !important;}” link=”https://www.picsporadic.com/items/BIGMTN-180219-543-G85″][vc_column_text css=”.vc_custom_1522901809775{padding-left: 10px !important;}”]Preparing the bikes for the climb. |?
    [/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row full_width=”stretch_row_content_no_spaces” equal_height=”yes” content_placement=”top” css=”.vc_custom_1522874901132{margin-top: 40px !important;margin-bottom: 0px !important;border-top-width: 0px !important;border-bottom-width: 0px !important;background-color: #383838 !important;}”][vc_column parallax=”content-moving-fade” parallax_image=”15059″ parallax_speed_bg=”1.2″ offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-8 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-10″ css=”.vc_custom_1523509610776{margin-bottom: 0px !important;border-bottom-width: 0px !important;padding-bottom: 0px !important;}”][vc_empty_space height=”500px”][vc_column_text css=”.vc_custom_1553135557102{margin-bottom: 0px !important;border-bottom-width: 0px !important;padding-bottom: 0px !important;padding-left: 5px !important;background-color: rgba(2,2,2,0.44) !important;*background-color: rgb(2,2,2) !important;}” el_class=”light”]Enormous cypress trees stretch up in the forests of Totonicapán. ? Purchase
    [/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”5/12″ offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-4 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-5 vc_col-sm-offset-0 vc_col-xs-12″ css=”.vc_custom_1493313751677{padding-top: 20px !important;padding-right: 20px !important;padding-bottom: 20px !important;padding-left: 20px !important;background-color: #f9f9f9 !important;}”][vc_custom_heading text=”A network of Aqueducts” font_container=”tag:h2|font_size:20|text_align:left|color:%233f3f3f|line_height:20px” google_fonts=”font_family:Advent%20Pro%3A100%2C200%2C300%2Cregular%2C500%2C600%2C700|font_style:500%20bold%20regular%3A500%3Anormal” el_class=”white”][vc_column_text css_animation=”none”]The communal forest of Totonicapán is dotted with countless springs and aqueducts. Each spring has the name of the municipality it feeds painted on it along with a color code – corresponding water pipe buried below. The area has an enormous trail system – which coincidentally is mostly ridable, even on the bikepacking setup.  Following the color blazed on the trees you can follow the waterlines below.

    That is not to say I didn’t get lost more than once  // cliffed out or stuck in a section with no way out but down. For happenstance I stumbled across an enormous cliff formation with views over the forest. I pulled off my bike cleats and scrambled to the top, only to find two Mayan men up at the top – barefoot as well. Holding a fire ceremony. One of them had to be 80 years old.

    We talked for a bit and I left them to their rituals, exploring around the far side of the cliff. Not that any rock climber would make it this far out into the forests of Totonicapán Guatemala, but if they did they would find incredible granite towers just waiting to be climbed.

     [/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”7/12″ css=”.vc_custom_1522902758411{padding-top: 20px !important;padding-right: 0px !important;padding-bottom: 20px !important;padding-left: 0px !important;background-color: #f9f9f9 !important;}” offset=”vc_col-lg-4 vc_col-md-5″][vc_single_image image=”15076″ img_size=”large” onclick=”custom_link” img_link_target=”_blank” link=”https://www.picsporadic.com/items/BIGMTN-180222-149-G85″ css=”.vc_custom_1523510131462{padding-left: 10px !important;}”][vc_column_text css=”.vc_custom_1533622419395{padding-left: 10px !important;}”]Scrambling to the top of one of the granite towers in the forest. | ?
    [/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-8 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-10″ css=”.vc_custom_1523510042849{background-color: #f9f9f9 !important;}”][jig_vc][justified_image_grid thumbs_spacing=10 row_height=150 height_deviation=100 title_field=caption caption=off mobile_caption=off caption_opacity=1 caption_bg_color=rgba(0,0,0,0.0) caption_text_color=grey caption_align=center lightbox=attachment margin=3 limit=4 last_row=hide aspect_ratio=1:1 rml_id=178 rml_lightbox_groups=no][/jig_vc][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row full_width=”stretch_row_content_no_spaces” content_placement=”top” css=”.vc_custom_1493323224936{margin-top: 35px !important;margin-bottom: 35px !important;border-top-width: 0px !important;border-bottom-width: 0px !important;background-color: #383838 !important;}”][vc_column css=”.vc_custom_1493314771844{margin-top: 0px !important;border-top-width: 0px !important;padding-top: 0px !important;background-color: #f9f9f9 !important;}” offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-8 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-10 vc_col-xs-12″][vc_single_image image=”15094″ img_size=”full” onclick=”custom_link” img_link_target=”_blank” css=”.vc_custom_1523511003692{padding-top: 5px !important;padding-right: 5px !important;padding-bottom: 5px !important;padding-left: 5px !important;}” link=”https://www.picsporadic.com/items/BIGMTN-180220-010-G85″][vc_column_text css=”.vc_custom_1533618660095{padding-left: 10px !important;}”]Someimes lost isn’t so bad – stumbling across these enormous cliff formations – complete with Mayan prayer sites at the summits.  |?
    [/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row full_width=”stretch_row_content_no_spaces” equal_height=”yes” content_placement=”top” css=”.vc_custom_1522893193416{margin-top: 30px !important;margin-bottom: 0px !important;border-top-width: 0px !important;border-bottom-width: 0px !important;background-color: #383838 !important;}”][vc_column width=”1/2″ offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-4 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-5 vc_col-sm-offset-0 vc_col-xs-12″ css=”.vc_custom_1523508551453{padding-top: 20px !important;padding-right: 20px !important;padding-bottom: 20px !important;padding-left: 20px !important;background: #f4f4f4 url(https://www.picsporadic.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/guatemala-180407-202-g5-pano.jpg?id=15083) !important;background-position: center !important;background-repeat: no-repeat !important;background-size: cover !important;}”][vc_empty_space height=”400px”][/vc_column][vc_column width=”1/2″ css=”.vc_custom_1523508498302{padding-top: 20px !important;padding-right: 20px !important;padding-bottom: 20px !important;padding-left: 20px !important;background-color: #f4f4f4 !important;background-position: center !important;background-repeat: no-repeat !important;background-size: cover !important;}” offset=”vc_col-lg-4 vc_col-md-5″][vc_custom_heading text=”Quiché” font_container=”tag:h1|font_size:30px|text_align:left|color:%233f3f3f|line_height:40px” google_fonts=”font_family:Alfa%20Slab%20One%3Aregular|font_style:400%20regular%3A400%3Anormal” el_class=”white”][vc_custom_heading text=”Hunting for singletrack in the home of the K’iche’ Maya” font_container=”tag:h2|font_size:20|text_align:left|color:%233f3f3f|line_height:20px” google_fonts=”font_family:Advent%20Pro%3A100%2C200%2C300%2Cregular%2C500%2C600%2C700|font_style:500%20bold%20regular%3A500%3Anormal” el_class=”white”][vc_column_text]Down and down – I followed the logging trails until I hit pavement. I made it! It is always a relief to not have to hike out. I was back on my map – a road I had ridden many times before. I stopped at a tienda and loaded up on simple sugars before continuing onward to Santa Cruz del Quiché.

    Although I was feeling a bit exhausted – a faint track on satilite view enticed me to descend into a dry canyon. I came across a couple women at the bottom, whom I understandably startled as they were washing their cloths. After a breif hike-a-bike I stumbled upon a perfect singletrack trail winding along a cliff through the canyon.

     [/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=”15082″ img_size=”large” onclick=”custom_link” img_link_target=”_blank” link=”https://www.picsporadic.com/items/BIGMTN-180222-256-G85″][vc_column_text el_class=”white”]In the dry canyons of Quiché water is rare. One must descend hundreds of meters before you reach a small stream like this at the bottom.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row full_width=”stretch_row_content_no_spaces” equal_height=”yes” content_placement=”top” css=”.vc_custom_1493316115647{margin-top: 0px !important;margin-bottom: 0px !important;border-top-width: 0px !important;border-bottom-width: 0px !important;background-color: #383838 !important;}”][vc_column offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-8 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-10 vc_col-xs-12″ css=”.vc_custom_1522894091802{background-color: #f9f9f9 !important;}”][vc_single_image image=”15084″ img_size=”full” onclick=”custom_link” img_link_target=”_blank” css=”.vc_custom_1523508307103{padding-top: 5px !important;padding-right: 5px !important;padding-bottom: 5px !important;padding-left: 5px !important;}” link=”https://www.picsporadic.com/items/BIGMTN-180222-608-G85″][/vc_column][vc_column width=”1/2″ offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-4 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-5 vc_col-sm-offset-0 vc_col-xs-12″ css=”.vc_custom_1493409656577{padding-top: 20px !important;padding-right: 20px !important;padding-bottom: 20px !important;padding-left: 20px !important;background-color: #f4f4f4 !important;}”][vc_custom_heading text=”We made it” font_container=”tag:h2|font_size:20|text_align:left|color:%233f3f3f|line_height:20px” google_fonts=”font_family:Advent%20Pro%3A100%2C200%2C300%2Cregular%2C500%2C600%2C700|font_style:500%20bold%20regular%3A500%3Anormal” el_class=”white”][vc_column_text]Part of what makes this area so special is the abundance of footpaths. Quiché and Totonicapán are home to countless small indigenous villages living much like they did 400 years ago – working the land, farming, logging and weaving. To approach this region is to arrive without a map. Looking across the deep canyons and vallies you can let your imagination wander with the countless opportunities for exploration – visible in the numerous trails and 4×4 roads that switchback the hillsides.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”1/2″ css=”.vc_custom_1522902797867{padding-top: 5px !important;padding-right: 5px !important;padding-left: 10px !important;background-color: #f4f4f4 !important;}” offset=”vc_col-lg-4 vc_col-md-5″][vc_column_text css=”.vc_custom_1553135453093{margin-top: 40px !important;margin-right: 10px !important;}”]I would go on to reunite that evening with my friends from Escarabajos Quiché – the local mountain bike club. I arrived in the rain to the the town were I once lived for two months – my frined Tony Tavico put me up in his father’s hotel for the night above the tire repair shop that he owns. Tomorrow I will drop the bikepacking bags and head to Lake Atitlán – a full 75km from here on a new route that they have been working on.

    The spirit of mountain biking lives on in Guatemala.

    -Brendan James[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row full_width=”stretch_row_content_no_spaces” content_placement=”top” css=”.vc_custom_1493229127906{margin-top: 0px !important;margin-bottom: 0px !important;border-top-width: 0px !important;border-bottom-width: 0px !important;background-color: #383838 !important;}”][vc_column css=”.vc_custom_1493409747415{margin-top: 0px !important;margin-bottom: 35px !important;border-top-width: 0px !important;padding-top: 0px !important;background-color: #f4f4f4 !important;}” offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-8 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-10 vc_col-xs-12″][vc_single_image image=”15087″ img_size=”full” onclick=”custom_link” img_link_target=”_blank” css=”.vc_custom_1523508243807{padding-top: 5px !important;padding-right: 5px !important;padding-bottom: 5px !important;padding-left: 5px !important;}” link=”https://www.picsporadic.com/items/Guatemala-171220-099-G85-HDR”][vc_column_text css=”.vc_custom_1533621999854{padding-right: 10px !important;padding-left: 10px !important;}”]Taking advantage of the rains – locals light fire to cornstalks clearing their fields in preparation for planting.  |? [/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row full_width=”stretch_row_content_no_spaces” css=”.vc_custom_1533621336108{margin-right: 0px !important;margin-bottom: 0px !important;margin-left: 0px !important;border-bottom-width: 0px !important;border-left-width: 0px !important;background-color: #383838 !important;}”][vc_column offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-8 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-10 vc_col-xs-12″ css=”.vc_custom_1533621353297{margin-bottom: 0px !important;border-bottom-width: 0px !important;padding-bottom: 40px !important;}”][vc_custom_heading text=”Route Map” font_container=”tag:h1|font_size:30px|text_align:left|color:%23eaeaea|line_height:40px” google_fonts=”font_family:Alfa%20Slab%20One%3Aregular|font_style:400%20regular%3A400%3Anormal” el_class=”white” css=”.vc_custom_1533621298230{padding-left: 10px !important;}”][vc_column_text][/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row full_width=”stretch_row_content_no_spaces” css=”.vc_custom_1493266731151{margin-right: 0px !important;margin-bottom: 0px !important;margin-left: 0px !important;border-bottom-width: 0px !important;border-left-width: 0px !important;background-color: #383838 !important;}”][vc_column offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-8 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-10 vc_col-sm-offset-0 vc_col-xs-12″ css=”.vc_custom_1493409798261{padding-top: 20px !important;padding-right: 20px !important;padding-bottom: 20px !important;padding-left: 20px !important;background-color: #232323 !important;}”][vc_text_separator title=”Gallery” title_align=”separator_align_left” el_class=”gallerytext” css=”.vc_custom_1493266781501{margin-right: 20px !important;}”][/vc_column][vc_column offset=”vc_col-lg-offset-2 vc_col-lg-8 vc_col-md-offset-1 vc_col-md-10 vc_col-xs-12″ css=”.vc_custom_1493266954426{padding-right: 5px !important;padding-left: 5px !important;background-color: #232323 !important;}”][vc_column_text css=”.vc_custom_1522896337874{margin-top: 20px !important;padding-bottom: 20px !important;}”]

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